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Routes in Dinas Cromlech

Cemetery Gates T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cenotaph Corner T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dives/Better Things T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Flying Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Left Wall T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 170 ft, 2 pitches
FA: J.Brown, D.Whiilans 1951
Page Views: 2,683 total, 22/month
Shared By: Chris Owen on Dec 1, 2007
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Very airy and ballsy route for its day. Surprisingly climbed before Cenotaph Corner. Steep, exposed and strenuous.

1) 110ft 5.9. A sensational pitch. Up the arete and bear left into the crack up this then the wall above on generally good holds, no room for error though, onto a ledge and belay (nuts).

2) 60ft 5.8. Step right and climb the steep, steep arete and around a little to the right, then up to finish.

Location

The right hand side of the right wall. Descend from Cenotaph Corner down a chimney to a tree below the right arete of the wall.

Protection

Nuts, cams.

Photos

Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Was HVS when I did it! Nov 1, 2017
Will Maness
Raleigh, NC
 
Will Maness   Raleigh, NC
 
Highly recommend doing in one long mega-pitch with half ropes. If you're climbing in the UK, you ought to be using half ropes anyway. Amazing climb, my first E1, and one of my most unforgettable climbing experiences to date! Oct 31, 2017
John Ely   DC
Watch the original ascent team, Brown and Whillans, climb this circa 1984 on YouTube: 'Don Whillans' Last Climb.'

youtube.com/watch?v=O6CTK2h… Jun 8, 2014
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Thanks for catching that Charles. Nov 1, 2011
The correct name/spelling is 'Cemetery Gates' Oct 25, 2011
Chris Owen
Big Bear Lake
 
Chris Owen   Big Bear Lake  
 
Can be legitimately done in one long single pitch and still manage to maintain tradition.. Apr 15, 2009