Mountain Project Logo

Routes in London Wall Area

Bond Street T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Great Portland Steet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
London Wall T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Mall, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 75 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 775 total · 7/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Dec 12, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This stunning hand crack splits the middle of London Wall. A pure, aesthetic classic and a fine test of jamming ability. The crack starts as wide fists and, after 30 feet of beautiful hand and fist jams, narrows to fingers near the crux, which involves a move into a niche. Climbing above the niche is substantially easier but less straightforward. The pitch 1 belay is on a good ledge with poor gear on top of the crack. Pitch 2 is a dirty scramble off to the right (still has technical moves; stay roped up).

A great climb; certainly one of the best at Millstone.

Location

Right of Embankment Wall. Splitter hand crack right in the middle of the face.

Protection

Takes whatever you'll give it. From a 3.5 camalot down to small wires, protection is good throughout. Except at the belay.

Photos

Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8
Straightforward hand-jamming with the hardest move getting into the niche after the crack closes down. Low end HVS 5a in UK terms - Indian Creek 5.7? Oct 23, 2010

More About Bond Street

Printer-Friendly