Type: Trad, 75 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 823 total · 7/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Dec 12, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route

8 Opinions

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This stunning hand crack splits the middle of London Wall. A pure, aesthetic classic and a fine test of jamming ability. The crack starts as wide fists and, after 30 feet of beautiful hand and fist jams, narrows to fingers near the crux, which involves a move into a niche. Climbing above the niche is substantially easier but less straightforward. The pitch 1 belay is on a good ledge with poor gear on top of the crack. Pitch 2 is a dirty scramble off to the right (still has technical moves; stay roped up).

A great climb; certainly one of the best at Millstone.


Right of Embankment Wall. Splitter hand crack right in the middle of the face.


Takes whatever you'll give it. From a 3.5 camalot down to small wires, protection is good throughout. Except at the belay.


Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
Straightforward hand-jamming with the hardest move getting into the niche after the crack closes down. Low end HVS 5a in UK terms - Indian Creek 5.7? Oct 23, 2010