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Routes in Old Man of Stoer, Lochinver

Old Man of Stoer, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 240 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II
FA: Tom Patey,Brian Robinson,Brian Henderson,Paul Nunn 1966
Page Views: 2,836 total, 29/month
Shared By: USBRIT Ross on Dec 23, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Descend steep grass to reach the sea. One has to swim a 30' channel to reach the stack and then set up a tyrolean .Starting from a cluster of pitons. There are two other rotes up the stack one 5.9 the other 5.11. Described is the original route .P1)Climb the landward face for 12' to gain a big horizontal crack that leads one around the corner to the left arete (cam pro)to a large corner ledge. Climb up left wards from under an overhang to reach a groove.Go directly up the crack to another large ledge on the arete.70'5.7 P2)Climb the a steep wall via a rightwards curving crack to overhangs through these using a crack.Go delicately left to ledges and continue to a cave with a thread belay.70' 5.8 P3) Go rightwards around the arete back to the landward side and right up a ramp ignoring the first upward break to gain a small ledge with a block belay.Beware of pucking Fulmers.40'5.5. P4)Climb the obvious groove to easy rock and finish up a small corner to a fine airy summit.50'5.6. Make a 150' rap mostly in space down the SE corner to a platform. Then rap to the base from the right side of the ledge.

Location

Stor Peninsula. NW Scottish coast.

Protection

Normal rack cams and stoppers.
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.8
A couple notes. Take a rack to 3" for the regular route. If you want to do something different from the original route (as in the E1 route that starts from the end of the original route's start) take doubles of 2-3" cams. A 4" cam isn't necessary but would not go unused. Many variations are possible to the original route to make the pitches after P1 a bit harder or more interesting. The hand crack above the belay through the overhangs that is described here as P2, for instance goes at about 5.8 and is not part of the original route (it's part of the E1 (5.10) route up the face) but it is the better way. P2 on the original route goes left from the belay and up to the ramp, then follows the ramp right, avoiding the overhangs. The original route after P1 is about a 5.6 climb that keeps moving up and right around the stack after P2.

Whatever you do, do the route with double ropes...makes life much easier and for a really nice rap to the base.

Fantastic day out. If you're in the area, do it. Sep 21, 2015