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Routes in The Flying Buttress

Flying Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flying Buttress Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wedge Rib T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Grey, David Johnson, 1966
Page Views: 4,076 total · 32/month
Shared By: Dpurf on Jan 18, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Climb up the slab to the center of the roof. No protection until under the roof and it is off to the left. Get to the first big hold and do a blind placement of a #1 BD or was a #2. Sorry I can't remember. Now there is a little trick to getting established, but I am not giving that away. After that brute force will get to the top. Enjoy.
A side note when I first climb in Stanage, I did not understand the ratings. The guy(Patrick) I was climbing with told me on very climb we did there it was 5.8. After my on site of this I thought to myself the ratings here sure are stiff.


Look for a big roof, wait there are a lot of big roofs there. Just ask some one they will direct you.


single set of cams and a set of nuts.


New Hampshire
rdlennon   New Hampshire
The crucial cam is a #1 camalot. In American grading terms, this route is like a 5.5 slab to a 12-foot V1 to a 5.6 slab with a couple of slopey mantles. Not very sustained, but very excellent. The exposure can't be beat. Sep 28, 2008
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK
I still laugh when I think back to missing that crucial cam placement. It would have been quite a nasty fall if I'd blown the moves above the roof. Jun 3, 2013
lm610   Nottingham
I'd say 5.9 or in English terms HVS 5a/5b. very safe very good gear. will take a Camolot #1 or#2 or both if you have the endurance to place them. Apr 2, 2015

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