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Routes in The Flying Buttress

Flying Buttress T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Flying Buttress Direct T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b PG13
Wedge Rib T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Paul Grey, David Johnson, 1966
Page Views: 3,918 total, 33/month
Shared By: Dpurf on Jan 18, 2008
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Exhilarating climbing on large holds. Climb up the slab to the center of the roof. No protection until under the roof and it is off to the left. Get to the first big hold and do a blind placement of a #1 BD or was a #2. Sorry I can't remember. Now there is a little trick to getting established, but I am not giving that away. After that brute force will get to the top. Enjoy.
A side note when I first climb in Stanage, I did not understand the ratings. The guy(Patrick) I was climbing with told me on very climb we did there it was 5.8. After my on site of this I thought to myself the ratings here sure are stiff.

Location

Look for a big roof, wait there are a lot of big roofs there. Just ask some one they will direct you.

Protection

single set of cams and a set of nuts.

Photos

lm610
Nottingham
  5.9
lm610   Nottingham
  5.9
I'd say 5.9 or in English terms HVS 5a/5b. very safe very good gear. will take a Camolot #1 or#2 or both if you have the endurance to place them. Apr 2, 2015
Nick Russell
Bristol, UK
 
Nick Russell   Bristol, UK  
 
I still laugh when I think back to missing that crucial cam placement. It would have been quite a nasty fall if I'd blown the moves above the roof. Jun 3, 2013
rdlennon
New Hampshire
  5.9+
rdlennon   New Hampshire
  5.9+
The crucial cam is a #1 camalot. In American grading terms, this route is like a 5.5 slab to a 12-foot V1 to a 5.6 slab with a couple of slopey mantles. Not very sustained, but very excellent. The exposure can't be beat. Sep 28, 2008