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Upper Cliff

New Hampshire > Pawtuckaway

Description

Crack climbs galore.... Some of the best, single-pitch cracks in New Hampshire "lead em' and weep".... A few, less-desirable, face climbs between the cracks normally top roped.... The Uppers is a shaded area that is nice on a sunny day but takes a while to dry after rain....
Please stay on trails to reduce impact....

That's all that needs to be said killer quality cracks from 5.5 (Double Jam) to 5.13 (Bean Pole Crack)....
Classics: The Roof 5.7, Obscene Phone Call 5.8, The Horn 5.9, but they are all good.

Getting There

Above the lower slab.

Follow trail around the left side of lower slab and continue till you see the cliff. Or follow signs from the trails on the right.

Routes from Left to Right

5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 2
● Bean Pole
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
 1
● Beanstalk
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X
 3
● Friction Slab
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 17
● Far Out Jam
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
● Far Out Jam Right
Trad, TR
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R
 1
● Desperate Depression
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 12
● The Tramp
Trad, TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 12
● Ms. Pac Man
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 9
● High Anxiety (aka Silicon Shoes)
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 107
● The Roof
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 2
● Commune
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 26
● Chamonix
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● Pee Pee The Sailor
TR
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 2
● Twice the Trouble
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1
● Double Trouble
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 69
● Double Jam
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 7
● PB & J
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 9
● Yellow Zonkers
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 2
● Rook
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 21
● Bishop
Trad, TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1
● Wedged
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
● Bloody Fingers
TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
● Climber's Corner
Trad
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 41
● The Chimney
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 35
● Short Stuff
Trad, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 96
● Obscene Phone Call
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 43
● No Answer
Trad, TR
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
 6
● Max Factor
Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 88
● The Horn
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 7
● Kiddie's Korner
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 36
● Diagonal
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 77
● Double Chin
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 10
● Fantastic Face
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 55
● The Start
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 3
● Trad Ramp
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 3
● Loose Flake Polka
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4
 1
● Devilish Diversion
Trad, TR, Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Bean Pole
 2
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Trad, TR
● Beanstalk
 1
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X Trad
● Friction Slab
 3
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a X Trad
● Far Out Jam
 17
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Far Out Jam Right
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
● Desperate Depression
 1
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a R Trad, TR
● The Tramp
 12
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● Ms. Pac Man
 12
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
● High Anxiety (aka Silicon S…
 9
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b TR
● The Roof
 107
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Commune
 2
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b TR
● Chamonix
 26
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
● Pee Pee The Sailor
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
● Twice the Trouble
 2
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR
● Double Trouble
 1
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Double Jam
 69
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● PB & J
 7
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, TR
● Yellow Zonkers
 9
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad, TR
● Rook
 2
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● Bishop
 21
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Wedged
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Bloody Fingers
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a TR
● Climber's Corner
 15
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
● The Chimney
 41
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad, TR
● Short Stuff
 35
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
● Obscene Phone Call
 96
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
● No Answer
 43
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
● Max Factor
 6
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 Trad, TR
● The Horn
 88
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
● Kiddie's Korner
 7
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
● Diagonal
 36
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
● Double Chin
 77
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
● Fantastic Face
 10
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b TR
● The Start
 55
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
● Trad Ramp
 3
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
● Loose Flake Polka
 3
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
● Devilish Diversion
 1
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b V0 4 Trad, TR, Boulder

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Upper Cliff now has a handful of anchors to support reduction in the degradation of the clifftop environment.
[Hide Photo] Upper Cliff now has a handful of anchors to support reduction in the degradation of the clifftop environment.
the roof is another upper cliff classic...
[Hide Photo] the roof is another upper cliff classic...
the Horn, the classic line on the upper cliff...
[Hide Photo] the Horn, the classic line on the upper cliff...

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Grant
Tamworth, NH
[Hide Comment] Good crack climbing? Absolutely. But be prepared: the grades at Upper Cliff are all bigtime sandbags Nov 20, 2024
Ryan Loiselle
Pepperell, MA
[Hide Comment] I think the nature/style of these short routes make the climbs feel a bit more challenging. Everything feels on par with grade after a few laps. Nov 25, 2024