Elevation: 849 ft
GPS: 42.515, -71.858 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 181,153 total · 1,087/month
Shared By: jeremyadams on Jan 6, 2007 with 2 Suggestions
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
Access Issue: Covid Guidelines Details

Description

Located 20 minutes north of Worcester and an hour west of Boston, this crag in Leominster State Forest offers a varied concentration of traditional rock climbing routes within a reasonable drive of many Eastern and Central Massachusetts climbers. Facing east-southeast and situated on a hillside, many of Crow Hill's cracks and faces often seep longer and wetter than other New England areas. The climbing season at Crow Hill begins in March, if it's a dry winter, or as late as June, if it's a wet spring.

The cliff's faces and features are comprised of gneiss, offering a grainy texture unique from the typical Northeast trad haunts (i.e. Cathedral, Gunks). A handful of easier routes at the north and south ends (called Practice Face and End Crags, respectively) are often busy. The crag's 5.8s are among the best in The Commonwealth, including Intertwine, Tarzan, and Diagonal, but the local classic is Cromagnon, a 5.10 crack that teaches toproping newbies how to jam, and how to swing.

The Midstate Trail runs along the clifftop, and locals residents of the Fitchburg area frequently hike and scramble around the crag, so brain buckets, vigilance, and common sense are wise complements to your rack, rope, and bug dope.

A climbing permit (free) [used to be] required of each climber by the state forest to legally climb at Crow. [A climber used to] obtain this at the park HQ prior to climbing, and renew annually, by showing harnesses and ropes to a ranger. Now it is climb at your own risk.

Be careful of the occasional Copperhead snake, which have been known to occupy some of the cracks, ledges and chimneys.

Getting There

From Route 2, take the Route 31 exit (west of Fitchburg) and travel south. A couple miles past the hotel and utility facility, the park headquarters appear on the right. Farther down the road, pass a pond with swimming area (comfort facilities, seasonal, $5 per car to park and swim). From the roadside pond parking area (not always open), a trail climbs perpendicular to the road, meeting the cliff base in 5 minutes.

A more reliable (typically prefered) parking situation is available about 1/4 mile further south on the right (dirt lot, aka "Climber's Lot"). From this lot, walk up the (closed to autos) gravel road about 10 minutes. From the road's terminus, a trail climbs through a break in an old stone wall to a fork, where signs offer guidance to the top of crag (via End Crags, left) or base of crag (right).

Map of Leominster Trails

43 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Crow Hill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 118
Boardwalk
Trad, TR
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 80
Green Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 45
The Chimney
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 51
Tom's Dilemma
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 37
Layback
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 42
Post Road (aka Black Route)
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 81
Sidewinder
Trad, TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 35
Franny's Folly
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 142
Intertwine
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 58
Diagonal
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 64
Tarzan
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
 45
Thin Line
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 68
Cro-Magnon
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 15
Cheetah
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 34
Jane
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Boardwalk 6. Practice Face (rig…
 118
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad, TR
Green Route 2. Green Corner
 80
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
The Chimney 4. The Buttress
 45
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Tom's Dilemma 1. End Crags
 51
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Layback 1. End Crags
 37
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, TR
Post Road (aka Black Route) 5. Main Face
 42
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Sidewinder 6. Practice Face (rig…
 81
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, TR
Franny's Folly 5. Main Face
 35
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Intertwine 5. Main Face
 142
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, TR
Diagonal 3. Fisherman's Wall
 58
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Tarzan 3. Fisherman's Wall
 64
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Thin Line 5. Main Face
 45
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Cro-Magnon 3. Fisherman's Wall
 68
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Cheetah 3. Fisherman's Wall
 15
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Jane 3. Fisherman's Wall
 34
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Crow Hill »

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