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Routes in 5. Main Face

Blue Angel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Blue Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Franny's Folly T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Intertwine T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Karen's Folly T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Outersite T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Post Road (aka Black Route) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smoky TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Thin Line T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,517 total, 37/month
Shared By: JD1984 on Jun 11, 2012
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


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Description

This is the classic, steep, face and finger crack about 15 feet right of Franny's Folly. It is stout for the grade with two pitons protecting the crux and a right-handed side-pull. A climber has recently indicated that the lower pin may be somewhat less than reliable. As I have never taken a fall on it, I cannot vouch for this, but caution should be used in using this pin (as of May 2012 both pins were still in place). Start on an easy slab up to the crack where the face gets really steep. There is a sustained crux past two pins (suspect) then a slight traverse to easier ground and the anchor.

Location

This is on the main face... approximately 15-20 feet right of Franny's Folly.

Protection

Standard rack with some small gear, two fixed pins (please don't remove them!!!! This has been done in the past, resulting in injured climbers!!!). This climb has chains as a fixed anchor.

Photos

kevin neville
Somerville, MA
  5.9
kevin neville   Somerville, MA
  5.9
Both pins look good to me. Lower one looks new, and is fully embedded. Upper one somewhat rusty, but still looks good. I backed up with gear anyway.

The route is steeper than it looks, definitely a stout lead. The holds are there, but not much rest. Aug 5, 2013
losbill
  5.9
losbill  
  5.9
Thanks for the post JD. Since I messaged you I was out at Crow. The lower pin is back. However it is sticking out quite a bit. When I led it I did not clip the pin choosing instead to place a purple cam about 12" below it. I also placed a small cam in the upper end of the pin scar the pin is in. I do not possess the knowledge to judge the adequacy of the pin placement. However I did subsequently speak with the person who placed it who is experienced and he felt it was a secure placement. YMMV. "Trust but backup"? Jun 26, 2012
JD1984
Worcester, MA
 
JD1984   Worcester, MA
 
One of the pins protecting the crux moves has been questioned as to its reliability. As of the date of this post, both pins are in place. In the past, this pin had been removed (possibly by a climber who thought it suspect...????). Use caution when climing Thin Line. Like most of the 5.8 climbs at Crow Hill, it is stout for the grade! Jun 25, 2012