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Routes in 2. Green Corner

Bet You Can't T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Green Gremlin T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Green Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tiny Pitches T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Triple Overhangs (aka Sun Gypsy) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Army climbers?
Page Views: 4,776 total, 36/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 11, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

This is the best of the Green Corner routes, unfortunately the fun climbing is over almost as soon as it starts. Because of the long traverse, the climb is usually split into two pitches. If you've already climbed Triple Overhangs and Green Gremlin and don't want to repeat the start for the third time, you can rappel from a pine tree at the top of the cliff to the base of the open book. Climb the left side of the block to the large ledge below the Green Gremlin corner. Traverse right along the ledge for about 60 feet to the base of a short open book and belay here. Climb the short dihedral with the nice finger crack. The crux is exiting the corner where there are two options - left or right. Look for a great hold up and over the top and pull yourself over. Fun climb, too bad it's so short.

To descend, either rappel from trees at the top or walk off left.

Location

This shares the start with Triple Overhangs and Green Gremlin right of the tree trunk and up the left side of a large block.

Protection

A light rack with small to medium gear.

Photos

Left a blue nut and yellow Friend cam up there on the second pitch. Would love to get them back. I'm in the Mass. area to connect if anyone finds them. Sep 10, 2017
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.5
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.5
A bit of historical info. The "colored" climbs (Green, Blue) were originally named for a small, colored rock placed on the top of a small cairn at the base. When the Lowell Tech (now U-Mass-Lowell) outing/climbing club started using Crow Hill in the early 1960s, we found old army pitons (soft iron) from Army (Ft. Devons) practice climbing. These have all rusted away or been removed. We knew the routes had been climbed but had no idea of names, so we just called them by colors. Oct 28, 2014
Jim Dinan
  5.5
Jim Dinan  
  5.5
I did this as a party of three using a single 60m rope, with the leader tied in at the midpoint. The first pitch used most of the 30m (followers belayed from the higher starting block to give a little extra rope). There was plenty of slack left over after the second pitch. Overall, a fun route, good gear, and a great way to introduce folks to multipitch climbing. Nov 3, 2013
JD1984
Worcester, MA
  5.5
JD1984   Worcester, MA
  5.5
The tree at the top is pretty beat up from top-ropes and anchors. A better option is to build a gear anchor in the bomber horizontal on the step behind the (dead) tree IMHO. Apr 5, 2013
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
I didn't see any good-sized trees last time I was there. Dec 3, 2012
Just build an anchor at the top off trees (if I remember correctly), and then belay from the top.

Jim Dec 3, 2012
Jcomeau
North Conway
Jcomeau   North Conway
How would you toprope the last pitch of this? Dec 2, 2012
JD1984
Worcester, MA
  5.5
JD1984   Worcester, MA
  5.5
Perfect introduction to multi-pitch climbing. Short, easy, and fun. Wish that open book would never end, but unfortunately it is over before you know it. Two options for the top out: To the left is easier. To the right (in a small barely-finger crack) is more exposed. Love this route if for no other reason than it was my first trad lead! Jun 11, 2012
A good, fun route. The traverse around the corner isn't hard, but it is freaky. If you're leading, be sure to place some gear after the corner for your second. The second pitch is fun, but it's short.

The whole thing can be done in 1 pitch if you use long runners and are careful with where you place gear. May 8, 2012
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
Pal Pocsi   Budapest, Hungary
I really enjoyed this whole route and think that the first pitch is very worthwhile and fun. The traverse over to the open book section is a lot cooler than it looks from the ground. Nov 17, 2009