Type: Trad
FA: John Mallery?
Page Views: 382 total · 50/month
Shared By: Fan Yang on Oct 5, 2018
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

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Description

Info for Dune, 5.12-5.13 R/X, comes from Boston Rocks 2nd Edition: "FFA: John Mallery long ago, after bolting. The bolts were chopped. Mark Richey & Barry Rugo climbed it on preplaced gear in 1999, then Peter Vintoniv & Tim Kemple led it from the ground up in 2000."

Edit: as of October 30, 2018 this route has several bolts and while gear is still needed, it is no longer R.

Location

It is between Cro-Magnon and Jane.

Protection

Gear.

Photos

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Fan Yang
5.12+ R
Fan Yang  
5.12+ R
Went out there today with the intention of trying this route and was severely disheartened to find several shiny bolts (and one bolt without hanger) on this route. Not even spaced to keep it mildly exciting! Bastard. Oct 30, 2018
Dune is a fairly controversial topic. Mallery originally lead the route with bolts and some gear, so it is not a total sport climb.

It was chopped not long after and saw little action for some time. A few climbers have led it on gear, both preplaced and not, and after toprope rehearsal. In this state, it is a serious, R/X route requiring two ropes and attentive belayers.

The first ascentionist has always wanted it rebolted which happened a few years back. It is still not a sport climb, has no anchor, and requires some gear. Oct 31, 2018
Fan Yang
5.12+ R
Fan Yang  
5.12+ R
Thanks, Dana, for the info. While tbh, it was disappointing to see the bolts, I was merely asking out of curiosity, not meaning to stir up any old controversy. Oct 31, 2018