Type: Trad, 60 ft (18 m)
GPS: 42.51922, -71.85935
FA: Robert Hall, and members of Lowell Tech Outing Club, Nov. 1968
Page Views: 10,102 total · 47/month
Shared By: brianmiller on Aug 9, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Old Timer, jim.dangle, Joe M
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Description Suggest change

In the far right corner on this face, mantel past a ledge and up to good pod to reach the bottom of the crux section. I write "section", because it's rather strenuous and sustained for roughly 20 feet and not just one or two moves. Keep working through it - and remember to stem.

Location Suggest change

The route is in the obvious book on the right-hand side of the face. After getting through the crux section, the climb backs off a great deal as it ascends a ramp to the left. Walk off from the top of the ramp.

Alternative descent: almost halfway up the face on the climb to the left (Jane) are some slings than can be used to get off the route. A ledge facilitates the traverse from Tarzan.

Protection Suggest change

A standard rack. The crack starts very wide and gets more narrow as your elevation increases.

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Photos

Jerry Malone [?spelling? ] Cleaning (poison ivy?) vines from Tarzan prior to the FA lead. For years I thought this was 1966 or 1967, but I finally found the movie film dated Nov. 1968, but even that must be wrong - I was in Buffalo, NY and he was in 'Nam.
Jerry Malone [?spelling? ] Cleaning (poison ivy…
 7
More cleaning on Tarzan, Nov. 1968. . . …or more. Likely 1966 or 67.
More cleaning on Tarzan, Nov. 1968. . . …or mo…
 3
Dan moving through the cruxy section.
Dan moving through the cruxy section.
 3
Matt working the crux of Tarzan.
Matt working the crux of Tarzan.
 1
I guess this is why it's called Tarzan!
I guess this is why it's called Tarzan!
 1
The climber is a few feet to the right of the Tarzan route. Not sure what this one is called. This doesn't show the left-sloping ledge at the top of Tarzan (often covered in a thick patch of poison ivy).
The climber is a few feet to the right of the T…
 2
Our 1968 TR setup (2 ropes tied together) used for cleaning the route. Note the rope was further out on the OH, rather than further right in the corner as seems to be done these days, giving a MUCH larger swing (from 8mm movie film)!
Our 1968 TR setup (2 ropes tied together) used…
 1
Cassy climbing Tarzan.
Cassy climbing Tarzan.
 1
"He flies through the air"...hence "Tarzan" after falling off before reaching the vines. Note the "swami" belt (photo from 8mm movie film).
"He flies through the air"...hence "Tarzan" aft…
 2
Tarzan 2022 onsight. For what its worth, I climbed the route three times afterwards on lead but with my gear left in place, and it felt easier each time (5.8+ grade still seemed on point). Awesome route and great warm-up for Jane (5.11) to the left.
Tarzan 2022 onsight. For what its worth, I clim…
 0
Looking down the ramp as Oliver pulls up the end of the main section.
Looking down the ramp as Oliver pulls up the en…
 0
Climbing up what would be Tarzan on TR to clean vines (from a 8mm movie film).
Climbing up what would be Tarzan on TR to clean…
 0

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