Avg: 3.7 from 74 votes
|Type:||Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)|
|Page Views:||15,863 total · 96/month|
|Shared By:||tscupp on Mar 22, 2008|
|Admins:||Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle|
The start is guarded by a steep boulder problem without pro leading to a pod with a shiny silver bolt on what looks like a chockstone about 15 feet up. There are three variations to this start, but most people opt to enter from the right on big, chalked holds. After clipping the bolt (gear can easily substitute), move up on a few slopey holds before hitting the jams. What's great about this climb is the variety of jams ranging mixing fingers, hands, fists, and even a little OW to gain a good rest, but the choice remains mostly yours as several sizes are often available depending on what suits you. If you can fight off the pump long enough, one hard move starting the leftward traverse marks the end of the difficult climbing which ends as the crack turns the corner. If, TR'ing, you can end here or finish up on Green Corner or try the arete above.
Though the climb has always been dry when I've seen it even when others are soaking, the crack and face tend to be a little dirty, so either bring a brush or find solid jams because they may slide out unexpectedly. If you can lead 5.10, you gotta get on this.