Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft (15 m)
FA: Steve Arsenault
Page Views: 14,771 total · 96/month
Shared By: tscupp on Mar 22, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


69 Opinions

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Description

Awesome and pumpy, this is the inviting, vertical hand crack that starts up the tallest portion of the wall but arches left to end the journey early.

The start is guarded by a steep boulder problem without pro leading to a pod with a shiny silver bolt on what looks like a chockstone about 15 feet up. There are three variations to this start, but most people opt to enter from the right on big, chalked holds. After clipping the bolt (gear can easily substitute), move up on a few slopey holds before hitting the jams. What's great about this climb is the variety of jams ranging mixing fingers, hands, fists, and even a little OW to gain a good rest, but the choice remains mostly yours as several sizes are often available depending on what suits you. If you can fight off the pump long enough, one hard move starting the leftward traverse marks the end of the difficult climbing which ends as the crack turns the corner. If, TR'ing, you can end here or finish up on Green Corner or try the arete above.

Though the climb has always been dry when I've seen it even when others are soaking, the crack and face tend to be a little dirty, so either bring a brush or find solid jams because they may slide out unexpectedly. If you can lead 5.10, you gotta get on this.

Location

This is the obvious vertical hand crack on the tallest part of the wall that varies in size and arches left about halfway up the wall. Chalked jugs in the alcove below mark the easiest sequence through the start.

Protection

1 QD which is a recommended stick clip unless you are confident on the bouldery start leading to mostly mid-sized cams and nuts possible. Because of the variety of sizes, you can really use a wide range of cams though having extra hand-sized pieces will make placing gear quicker higher up.

Photos