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Routes in 3. Fisherman's Wall

Babe TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheetah T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cro-Magnon T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jane T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Strawberry Fields TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Topaz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Wizard, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Elevation: 930 ft
GPS: 42.519, -71.859 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 20,087 total · 159/month
Shared By: tscupp on Mar 22, 2008 with updates from Chris Roams
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle
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Description

If the moderates of Crow Hill are what attract you to this fine MA crag, then this wall is probably not for you. With the easiest line being 5.8+ and the hardest going at 5.13, this wall reaches approximately 80 feet in height, is slightly overhanging and is stunning.

The left portion on the wall is split by a ledge which makes up the traverse of Green Corner. Most of the climbs on this part are stiff 5.9ish on large slopers. If you decide to do the second pitch or just do one long pitch, the upper half is much harder with fewer and smaller holds. There is also the easy exit finishing up Green Corner's second pitch.

The climbs on the right are the attention getters (visually at least) being either beautiful cracks or improbable moves up through slopey horizontals. This is the tallest unbroken part of the wall with a nice brownish color. Some lines have been led with small gear and big moves producing test pieces going at 5.13 R/X (more info on this soon).

Don't miss the classics like Diagonal (5.8+), Cro-Magnon (5.10), and Jane (5.11) though the rest of the climbs are great as well. Most of the climbs on the wall can be lead or TR'd with long slings and a 60m rope.

More info to come about the history of the wall....

Getting There

Situated to the climber's right of the green corner and left of Tarzan's corner and the buttress. Hard to miss due to its height and visible difficulty.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Fisherman's Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 42
Diagonal
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
Tarzan
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Cheetah
Trad, TR
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 59
Cro-Magnon
Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 28
Jane
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Diagonal
 42
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Tarzan
 50
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Cheetah
 9
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Cro-Magnon
 59
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad, TR
Jane
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Fisherman's Wall »

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Photos

Luc-514
Montreal, Quebec
Luc-514   Montreal, Quebec  
Dune.
youtube.com/watch?v=Gg7C5Ei… Sep 26, 2015
AL .
UT
AL .   UT
So what's the story with "Dune"? I gave it a TR today, and I have to say it's an amazing pitch. Was this an old aid line that got freed? Did the FFA go on gear, or were the bolts placed first and the gear ascent came second (or vice-versa), and who was the first ascensionist? I haven't had an opportunity to climb much in the Eastern U.S., but the Fisherman's Wall seems like a nice, little gem. Jun 15, 2017
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
Tim McGivern   Medford, ma
Info for Dune 5.12-5.13 R/X from Boston Rocks 2nd Edition: "FFA: John Mallery long ago, after bolting. The bolts were chopped. Mark Richey & Barry Rugo climbed it on preplaced gear in 1999, then Peter Vintoniv & Tim Kemple led it from the ground up in 2000." Jun 16, 2017

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