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3. Fisherman's Wall

Massachusetts > Leominster Area > Crow Hill

Description

If the moderates of Crow Hill are what attract you to this fine MA crag, then this wall is probably not for you. With the easiest line being 5.8+ and the hardest going at 5.13, this wall reaches approximately 80 feet in height, is slightly overhanging and is stunning.

The left portion on the wall is split by a ledge which makes up the traverse of Green Corner. Most of the climbs on this part are stiff 5.9ish on large slopers. If you decide to do the second pitch or just do one long pitch, the upper half is much harder with fewer and smaller holds. There is also the easy exit finishing up Green Corner's second pitch.

The climbs on the right are the attention getters (visually at least) being either beautiful cracks or improbable moves up through slopey horizontals. This is the tallest unbroken part of the wall with a nice brownish color. Some lines have been led with small gear and big moves producing test pieces going at 5.13 R/X (more info on this soon).

Don't miss the classics like Diagonal (5.8+), Cro-Magnon (5.10), and Jane (5.11) though the rest of the climbs are great as well. Most of the climbs on the wall can be lead or TR'd with long slings and a 60m rope.

More info to come about the history of the wall....

Getting There

Situated to the climber's right of the green corner and left of Tarzan's corner and the buttress. Hard to miss due to its height and visible difficulty.

Routes from Left to Right

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 4
Topaz
Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Babe
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 2
Strawberry Fields
TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 43
Diagonal
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 59
Cro-Magnon
Trad, TR
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
 0
Dune
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
 28
Jane
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 9
Cheetah
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
Tarzan
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 1
The Wizard
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Topaz
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Babe
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Strawberry Fields
 2
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Diagonal
 43
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Cro-Magnon
 59
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Dune
 0
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R Trad
Jane
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13 Trad, TR
Cheetah
 9
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Tarzan
 50
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
The Wizard
 1
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

J. Healy setting the last piece of pro on 'The Wizard', circa 1986. From there, you swing around the arete and top out on the other side under the hanging block.
[Hide Photo] J. Healy setting the last piece of pro on 'The Wizard', circa 1986. From there, you swing around the arete and top out on the other side under the hanging block.
Right side of the Fisherman's Wall.
[Hide Photo] Right side of the Fisherman's Wall.
Big swings on Tarzan.
[Hide Photo] Big swings on Tarzan.
This shows the far right side of the Fisherman's Wall and the corner of the Buttress. The climber to the left is on Jane (5.11), and the climber to the right is on Buttress (5.9).
[Hide Photo] This shows the far right side of the Fisherman's Wall and the corner of the Buttress. The climber to the left is on Jane (5.11), and the climber to the right is on Buttress (5.9).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Luc-514
Montreal, QC
AL .
UT
[Hide Comment] So what's the story with "Dune"? I gave it a TR today, and I have to say it's an amazing pitch. Was this an old aid line that got freed? Did the FFA go on gear, or were the bolts placed first and the gear ascent came second (or vice-versa), and who was the first ascensionist? I haven't had an opportunity to climb much in the Eastern U.S., but the Fisherman's Wall seems like a nice, little gem. Jun 15, 2017
Tim McGivern
Medford, ma
[Hide Comment] Info for Dune 5.12-5.13 R/X from Boston Rocks 2nd Edition: "FFA: John Mallery long ago, after bolting. The bolts were chopped. Mark Richey & Barry Rugo climbed it on preplaced gear in 1999, then Peter Vintoniv & Tim Kemple led it from the ground up in 2000." Jun 16, 2017