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Routes in 3. Fisherman's Wall

Babe TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Cheetah T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cro-Magnon T,TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Diagonal T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jane T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Strawberry Fields TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tarzan T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Topaz T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Wizard, The T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
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Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: FA Steve Arsenault, spring 1966, FFA Henery Barber, spring 1972
Page Views: 6,468 total · 52/month
Shared By: AlexT on Mar 25, 2008
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer, jim.dangle

You & This Route


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Description

Jane is the obvious finger crack on the right side of the Fisherman's Wall (the tallest, and largest wall). This is one of my very favorites. Most jams are secure depending on your hand size and ability level. The crux is the obvious bulge with chockstone in the crack. Directly above the bulge/crux is a sling anchor, which most people lower from. The climb does continue to the top; however, this is not the common practice.

When Jane was first freed, it is was one of the hardest pitches in the U.S.

Location

Jane is the obvious finger crack on the right side of the Fisherman's Wall. (tallest, and largest wall) To find the start follow the crack to the bottom and look for a horizontal muffin just wanting to be grabbed, from there follow the crack straight up. (do not get confused, there are two cracks to the right of Jane. The far right in the corner of the wall is Tarzan 5.8PG13 and in between Jane and Tarzan is Cheetah, 5.10 PG13, [goes left to same sling as Jane]) If you choose follow the route to the top, you may set an anchor on a tree and let your buddy TR, rap from a tree, or belay your buddy from a tree while he cleans you gear. You can walk of left or right. If not, lower from the sling.

For TRs, finding the top of the route can be tricky, although there are paths and some of the bark on some trees is slightly worn from setting anchors (this goes for the rest of Crow Hill).

Protection

With a rating of PG-13, most all placements are good, if you trust your Aliens. To be totally safe a green/#0.75 Camalot or equivalent-size placed where the finger crack widens to a hand crack is a good bet.

Photos

This is a great route and has a good combination of hard crack climbing and slopper holds through the crux of the route. Do not stop at the three pin anchor, (webbing recently replaced 11/1/12). Instead, follow the obvious crack line to the top of the cliff for the full value of this slightly overhanging route. The protection is all there and is definitely a G-rated route. Protection can be found throughout the full length of this wonderful line. Nov 23, 2012
twellman
Cambridge
 
twellman   Cambridge
 
I second Kevin's opinion that the gear is great on this, no way it's PG-13. In fact, I would even say it's a good first 5.11 lead. You can even scope most of the gear from the ground (primarily finger-sized pieces).

A lot of fun moves are crammed in those first 40 feet to the anchor! May 13, 2014
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
  5.11a
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
  5.11a
I've both aided and free climbed this thing to the midway anchor. Gear may feel tricky to place if you're pumped, but it's definitely G. Jun 22, 2016
Max Dismukes
North Quincy, MA
 
Max Dismukes   North Quincy, MA
 
Go to the top! There is a dirty and vegetated section right after the pin anchor, but it quickly gets back into great climbing on a crack and surrounding jugs. Nothing harder than 5.8 or 9 but very fun. Nov 6, 2016
Andy Casler
Plymouth, NH
 
Andy Casler   Plymouth, NH
 
Climbing through the crux and to the fixed anchor was fun, but the climbing after the anchor is the best on the route. Also, the fixed anchor after the crux is jacked. One pin was fully rotted through, and quality of the other two pins was unclear. Instead of trusting that, I anchored to a tree on top of the cliff and lowered to the ground - belaying my follower on top rope with a 60M rope Aug 25, 2017

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