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Routes in 4. The Buttress

Buttress T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Chimney, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Fool on a Hill T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nose, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Watusi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,356 total, 25/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 12, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

The Chimney is generally done is two short pitches to avoid rope drag along the ledge.

P1. Climb a short, vertical flake with somewhat broken rock. At the top of the flake, climb a right leaning corner past a couple of tricky section to an arete. Follow the arete to a left-leaning ramp above and belay just above the first set of bushes.

P2. Continue up the ramp (very easy) to a nice, short corner with some chimney moves higher up. Climb the corner through the chimney moves and belay at trees on the top of the wall. The fun is over almost as soon as it begins.

To descend, walk off to the right and follow the trail that leads down to the base of the Practice Face.

Location

This is located just before you turn the corner and scramble up the step to the main wall. Look for a vertical, left-facing flake that leads to a small slab.

Protection

Standard rack, up to medium cams.

Photos

DPas  
Great fun! Good for developing a lead head and managing rope drag. Pitch two chimney was soaked (felt harder than 5.6).

  • There is a huge piece of rock that seems to have fallen off this climb or the chossy overhang to the left of it. Rock quality seemed just fine on the route however.
Aug 3, 2015
JD1984
Worcester, MA
JD1984   Worcester, MA
Not a huge fan of the first pitch.... I usually start with the first pitch Outersite. Jun 6, 2014
A fun route, better than the blue route. Can be done in 1 pitch if you're careful with your rope. May 8, 2012
Pal Pocsi
Budapest, Hungary
Pal Pocsi   Budapest, Hungary
Fun route. The climbing in the first pitch is straight forward but a little strenuous for gear placement. I especially enjoyed the chimney in the second pitch. Nov 12, 2009