Mountain Project Logo

Routes in 1. End Crags

Beginner's Blessing T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
End Route TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Layback T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Pine Tree T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Tom’s Dilemma T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 35 ft
FA: Tom Rhimarki, 1966-7
Page Views: 3,432 total · 25/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Jan 12, 2007
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


39 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Dilemma is located in the center of the crag, about five feet right of a pronounced corner (Layback, 5.6).

Climb the crack to a point where it widens slightly about halfway up and just below a short, left-facing corner. The crux is passing this wider section and gaining the dihedral above. Look for some great holds on the face to the left. Climb the dihedral to the top and anchor using the trees.

Walk off left, and follow the gully back to the base of the wall.

This is a fun route that is more difficult than it looks.

Protection

Light rack, up to medium-sized gear.

Photos

Pete Johnston
Irvine, California
  5.7+
Pete Johnston   Irvine, California
  5.7+
Very hard for 5.5, closer to 5.7 to me. Sep 6, 2009
JD1984
Worcester, MA
  5.7
JD1984   Worcester, MA
  5.7
Also thought it was closer to 5.7.... The crux was wet though. May 12, 2014
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
This really climbs like a 5.7. I can see some old school guys in the '50s calling it a 5.5... but man, forget it. And leading it? Yikes, I tried! Jun 23, 2014
Russ Keane
Asheville, NC
Russ Keane   Asheville, NC
Update!

Successfully led this climb. It was nice and dry, and I was feeling more confident. I would consider it higher than 5.5. Maybe not quite a 5.7 by Crow Hill standards (easier than Post Road), so I would have to go with 5.6. Aug 18, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.6
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.6
Just a bit of historical info. on what the "dilemma" was.... On the FA (circa 1966-67, i.e. deep in the pre-Nut, pre-Cam era), Tom Rhimarki (spelling?) dropped his piton hammer just below the crux. He pulled through in "R/X" territory, essentially free soloing the FA.

As for the grade...5.5 is definitely "old school", from the days when Whitehorse's "brown spot and boiler plate" was rated 5.4. (AND before the bolt was placed there!) In his 1975 guide, Sam Streibert called it 5.6. Oct 28, 2014

More About Tom’s Dilemma

Printer-Friendly