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Routes in 6. Practice Face (right end)

Boardwalk T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Crescent T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Ladybug T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sidewinder T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Trad, TR, 70 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,925 total, 28/month
Shared By: Ben Natusch on Apr 2, 2009
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


55 Opinions

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Description

This route follows the crack that weaves back and forth between Ladybug (5.8) and Boardwalk (5.5). Then about 3/4 of the way up the crack ends and Sidewinder continues straight up to the top.

Location

This route is located on the practice face between Ladybug and Boardwalk. There are fixed bolts at the top for building TR anchors or rappelling. Rappel or walk off to the right.

Protection

There is good protection for the first half of the climb. The second half has some placements available in horizontals and cracks off to the side.

Photos

losbill
 
losbill  
 
Regarding consensus grade, I'm guilty as charged. I think if I see that the grade is what I thought it was I don't enter a grade rating. Oct 31, 2014
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
Wow! Ratings all the way from "easier than all 5.6 classics at the Gunks [shall we take that to translate to "5.5+" ?!] to 5.8. That's nearly a 3-grade differential. Isn't the consistency of the US rating system just great! Oh well, I guess that's called "experience". [OK, enough of the "gripe"!]

What "gets me" is that MtnProject has been trying to help this situation by providing a means to develop a CONCENSUS GRADE, giving everyone a chance to "put in their two cents" on the rating; yet something like 55 people "ticked" this climb, but well less than a dozen rated it. Amazingly, even two folk who took the time to write a full comment about the grade don't appear to have put in a rating in the "Your Rating" box.

I haven't done the climb in 3 or 4 decades, so won't rate it today...but I don't recall anything on the "Practice Wall" that we called harder than 5.6 (I don't remember climbing anything in what is now Ladybug). Oct 28, 2014
javd von dauber
East Brookfield MA
 
javd von dauber   East Brookfield MA
 
I agree with JD1984, definitely an easier 5.7 than Post Road and Fran's Folly. The harder move pulling over the bulge to the right of the bolt, over the rhino horn, is a fun way to stiffen the climb. Jul 31, 2014
JD1984
Worcester, MA
  5.7
JD1984   Worcester, MA
  5.7
For a nice variation, you can move left on the easy slab to the roof on the corner above Ladybug. Makes for a nice 5.8 exit move on holds that are usually wet. Led this again today and I'm gonna stick to my guns about it being the easier 5.7 here. The gear is great and all, but one piece has a great stance for the placement. May 20, 2013
This is an awesome route! I'm a 5.8/5.9 climber, and I think this was more like a 5.8. The crux section is about halfway up the wall, and I found going to the right was easier. Overall, great route as a warmup or for beginners. The solid D bolts at the top make for a fast and easy set up. I agree with J. Meagher about the crux. Dec 26, 2012
JD1984
Worcester, MA
  5.7
JD1984   Worcester, MA
  5.7
Definitely easier than Franny's Folly, Post Road, or Outersite (original finnish).... I agree that you can't really compare grades between areas in New England. Though the jug move is a little height-dependent, it's probably the only 5.7 move on the climb by Crow Hill standards.

S. Neoh: Gunks RULE!! Did a three day trip out there this year to do as many classic 5.6 climbs as possible, and ALL of them were much harder that Sidewinder :) Dec 22, 2012
S. Neoh  
Can't compare grades between areas and eras, especially between a predominantly sport area and a relatively old school area. Want even harder 5.7 routes? I got a few at The Gunks to recommend. :) Nov 17, 2012
J Meagher
  5.8-
J Meagher  
  5.8-
Easy 5.7? At Rumney, this would get a solid 5.8! Anyways, excellent face climb with some interesting balance moves. The crux for me was getting the jug/flake about 1/3 of the way up. It was very wet in the last 8 feet on 11/10, but that was probably due to the snow on the Thursday before. Nov 14, 2012
JD1984
Worcester, MA
  5.7
JD1984   Worcester, MA
  5.7
Easiest 5.7 at Crow Hill. Very fun start where the 5.7 climbing ends after about 25-30 feet, then it's pretty much 5.3 to the topout. Jun 11, 2012