West of all the Books, an intruiging combination of good beginner routes, odd-looking overhangs, and enjoyable bolted slabs. Do La Chaim (5.7), Good Timing (5.10a), and Fat-Bottomed Groove (5.10d R) for a taste of all three.
Descent: you can walk off nearly nearly every climb after two pitches. Routes west of the landmark, giant Batrachian Dihedral intersect a convenient ledge. East of the dihedral, the "walk off" is quite confusing--wander over to the right (east) when things get lower-angle and easy, and look for a way off--the best way is counterintuitively higher than it appears, though it is easy enough to do a short rappel from most points lower than that. If summitting (usually 4-5 pitches), rappel from slings to the north and hike around east to the base.
Go on the west trail from the new parking lot towards the old Twin Owls trailhead ~0.6 miles. Follow signs west from the old Twin Owls trailhead along the flatter/lower Black Canyon Trail. Continue past the trail to the Book. There is a sign marking the trail to the Pear. This is just West of the Bookend. ~45-55 minutes to approach.
23 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',11],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
Browse More Classics in The Pear
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Pear:
La Chaim 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
R Trad, 2 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For The Pear
Heavenly Journey 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b
: Lumpy Ridge
: The Pear
The quintessential runout face climb on Lumpy Ridge. Begin in the obvious crack system approx. 20' left of the big left facing dihedral on the right side of the Pear, look for the 2 bolt and chain anchor on the top of the 1st pitch [new 3/8 in, 2003]. Pitch #1: Climb the flared crack to its end step right to a hanging flake, then work up and left to the anchor. Pitch #2: Head straight up from the belay, hard moves at first, then sustained 5.8/5.9 for approx. 120' (no pro) to a b...[more] Browse More Classics in CO
News and Events For The Pear
Latest Regional Forum Messages
Erin, 3, playing on the great beginner rock of the...
A view of the corridor just below the summit of th...
Looking up toward the rap anchor from the corridor...
BETA PHOTO: The Pear (right) and Sundance (left) as seen from ...
|By Michael Komarnitsky|
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 3, 2001
The very highest northern pinnacle has chains you can rap from - though we used double 60s and easily reached the ground, it might have been close with a single, as you're dropping into a deep trench. Alternately, scramble about 100' east to a bulbous rock where there are another set of chains with a considerably shorter drop. Then follow class II/III descent to the east and around - though one girl in our party had a spectacular feet over head spin fall (probably 7.8 out of 10) after stepping on a loose boulder - so do so carefully.
|By Kurt Johnson|
From: Estes Park, CO
Dec 18, 2001
The perfect rock for a fun and mellow day of climbing, especially for beginers. It's got the easiest approach of any of Lumpy's formations and a greater collection of easy to moderate routes. It's definitely got its challenging runout routes as well, but it can't be beat if you're looking for a day of rest and relaxation on the rock.
|By George Bell|
From: Boulder, CO
Aug 5, 2002
A single 60m rope makes the rap from the summit. Rossiter claims this rap is only 75 feet so it would appear even a single 50m rope would make it. It is possible to walk off to the west from here, although this involves downclimbing some 5.0 slabs - not recommended!
|By Errett Allen|
Aug 19, 2002
First time I did Chrome Plated, got caught in a raging snowstorm on the 4th pitch. I discovered you can easily get off the Pear by traversing left (west) to an obvious pine tree that is below the summit headwall. The ledge turns the corner to the right (north) at this tree. The pine often has rap slings on it, but just continue traversing straight north across blocks and ledges beyond it (third class -- some exposure) into the west descent gully.