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Garfield Goes To Washington
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Avg: 3.7 from 219
votes
Routes in White House Wall
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*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Behind the Times T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Bolt of Rights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Brave Captain T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grounds for Divorce T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Honey Go Climbing T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Joe Bauer's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Political Division T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Political Prowness T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tap and Die T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 |
| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 3 pitches, Grade II |
| GPS: | 43.88162, -103.46156 |
| FA: | Mike Engle and Linda Schneider--1987 Ground Up |
| Page Views: | 20,020 total · 70/month |
| Shared By: | Peter Gram on Jul 9, 2002 |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
Description
This climb is one of the classics at Rushmore. It is long and has varied climbing. Follow the trail east from the parking near Dire Spire. Look for a prominent dihedral that shoots up to a gigantic roof. This is the climb, although the route traverses and does not mess with the roof.
Pitch 1: Climb up a steep crack that widens near its top. Some plant life is encountered low. This long pitch is the crux, and ends at a ledge with fixed anchors. Also, a slanting crack (Slant Crack, diagonals up and right), reaches this point.
Pitch 2: Follow an easy (5.6) but loose dihedral (wide) to another ledge. This pitch is very short. Then a long traverse must be made to the right on this ledge. Either traverse this ledge now, or do a short intermediate pitch to avoid rope drag for the last pitch.
Pitch 3: Climb up runout face (5.6 - 5.7) to the top of the formation. This pitch is pretty runout, but then again, I had a small rack when I did it. Maybe some aliens would help? At any rate, take the easiest path possible for upward progress.
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