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Routes in White House Wall

*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Behind the Times T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Bolt of Rights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bower's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Brave Captain T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grounds for Divorce T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Division T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Prowness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swamp Donkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tap and Die T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

White House Wall makes up a large portion of Emancipation Rockphormation on its northwest side. Garfield Goes to Washington is by far the most popular route on the wall, and for good reason. Make sure to visit this area for longer routes (3 pitches) and less crowds. A mixture of bolted and gear routes exist.

Descent must be made via rappel due to the federal off-limits boundary at the top of of WHW for all routes.

Getting There

Park near Dire Spire and look for a trail heading east up the hill. This is hard to follow, but if you continue up the hill over large boulders, you will run into the correct wall. The divisions between formations are a little hard to discern, but this portion of the Rockphormation has most of its routes on the west face. This rock also has a few north facing routes if you continue around the northwest corner.

23 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at White House Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 16
Slant Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 132
Garfield Goes To Washington
Trad 3 pitches
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 9
Bower's Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 4
Political Division
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Political Correctness
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 3
Junta Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 15
Garfield's Forgiven Affair
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 14
Political Prowness
Trad 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 15
Wife Sentence
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 25
Smear Campaign
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 10
Chemical Wire
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Grounds for Divorce
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Tap and Die
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slant Crack
 16
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Garfield Goes To Washington
 132
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Bower's Crack
 9
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Political Division
 4
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Political Correctness
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 3 pitches
Junta Crack
 3
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Garfield's Forgiven Affair
 15
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Political Prowness
 14
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Wife Sentence
 15
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Smear Campaign
 25
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Chemical Wire
 10
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Grounds for Divorce
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Tap and Die
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in White House Wall »

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Photos

Joe Brannan
Lyons, CO
Joe Brannan   Lyons, CO
Warning on the walk off, the back side of this wall is closed. Signs are posted everywhere reading 'Federally Closed Area.' Plan to rappel off the front. Aug 5, 2012

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