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Routes in White House Wall

*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Behind the Times T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Bolt of Rights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bower's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Brave Captain T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grounds for Divorce T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Division T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Prowness T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swamp Donkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tap and Die T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Travis Rypkema (late 90s?)
Page Views: 1,335 total · 8/month
Shared By: Eric Krantz on May 22, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details


This route starts about 100 feet left of Garfield (downhill direction - when standing at the base of Garfield, looking left it is the most prominent flaky crack you see and you'll notice it gets smaller as it goes up.) Climb up 5.7 about 30 feet to a small pod which starts a right-facing dihedral. The dihedral peters out soon enough into a flaring crack that gets smaller then bigger again and soon enough puts you under a little 2-ft roof. Work around the roof to the right and you'll find anchors there.


Small and medium nuts and cams.


If you are going up to onsight this thing. Have in your mind that you will be hanging out just a bit to dink in some gear here and there. 11d is right on but 12a is not far at all if you make some errors in the crux. Oh ya this thing is really really good. Nice job Travis, one of the best climbs in the area. Love CurtGEAR INFOsmall ta 2 inchand get after it1-11 HB's, small cams you can place some med cams as well+ one bolt down low May 27, 2004
Peter Gram
Portland, OR
Peter Gram   Portland, OR  
Nice pics... this looks like a great climb! May 28, 2004
Eric Sutton
Eric Sutton  
I agree that the rating is 5.11d if you happen to hit it right and a little harder if you don't. The gear is great and a little fiddly at times. I prefer however to refer to the first ascentionist as "Cute Boy" Rypkema,aname name given to him by some of his adoring fans of whom I am one. May 29, 2004
Eric Krantz
Black Hills
Eric Krantz   Black Hills
The directions say 100' left of Garfield (facing the wall), I think it's more like 100 yds. Oct 30, 2005
josh balt
Hill City South Dakota
josh balt   Hill City South Dakota
I had some good flight lessons on this one. Came back to send this thing after a couple attempts and a good size winger right before crux was over. Bomber gear right before the crux, place it then run it to the good holds just go for it. Its tottally worth it. Aug 31, 2010
Jason Todd
Cody, WY
Jason Todd   Cody, WY

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