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Routes in White House Wall

*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Behind the Times T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Bower's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grounds for Divorce T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Division T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Prowness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swamp Donkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tap and Die T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Manel Casanova(5.8A2) FFA: ?
Page Views: 316 total, 8/month
Shared By: harrison t on Sep 4, 2014
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Another great crack in the Emancipation area.
Scramble up through the boulders and find the best belay.
Start by climbing flakes to the splitter that turns into a left facing corner with gold and green rock. Climb/Stem the dihedral finger crack which also has pretty good face features. At the end of the crack there will be a steep bulge, pull through and start traversing left on the face to another short crack/flake. Place a piece and punch it up and right to the bolt on the very featured/juggy face. After the bolt head up for the anchor on a good ledge.
A little chossy/ricey in spots but is very fun and will clean up nice.

Location

To the right of Garfield a little ways. Keep skirting the wall until you are at the base of a very featured and steep gold face. Susi's Garden climbs the nice left facing corner. There is also a short wide splitter to the right of the steep gold face.
Single rope rap

Protection

green c3 to #2 c4.
nuts
2 pins (which have bomber gear right by them)
1 bolt on the upper face

Photos

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Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
This was put up by Manel Casanova presumably on solo lead. Here's a link to a picture and description which lists it as 5.8 A2, mountainproject.com/v/10768…. You guys might have gotten an FFA. I climbed Smear Campaign with Manel two years back, he was trying to solo lead and couldn't make any more progress and I was bouldering without a partner so it turned out to be a fun day and win win for both of us. He mentioned the route (Susie's Garden) and told me someone had chopped some bolts he had put on it... Sep 4, 2014