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Routes in White House Wall

*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Behind the Times T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Bolt of Rights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bower's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Brave Captain T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grounds for Divorce T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Division T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Prowness T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swamp Donkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tap and Die T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Travis Rypkema and Jason McNabb
Page Views: 83 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jason McNabb on Jun 18, 2018
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

This is the finger crack and face to the left of Chemical Wire.

1st pitch (11-) 100 ft
Start down in the schist and climb the finger crack up until the bulge. Ease out onto the face and clip a couple bolts to get up to the crux under the small roof. (a pink tricam fits nicely as the crux piece). Pull the roof and continue up the finger crack above. Head left and up on bolts through a series of bulges to the bolted anchor.

2nd pitch (12-) 50 ft
Crank on small crystals and long pulls between good holds for a few bolts to get you onto the slab and easier climbing above. You can build an anchor at the top of the pitch at a huge flake feature that is right around the corner from the start of the the 3rd pitch of Political Prowness.
You can venture to the top of the wall via the last two pitches of Political Prowness from here. It is also possible to head up and right before the flake to reach the anchors on Political Affair if you just want to do the first two pitches. This finish might be better with another bolt or two...probably should have thought of that.

Location

White House Wall left of Chemical Wire.

Protection

Single rack up to a BD #2. Extra finger size and smaller cams useful. Stoppers and Brass.

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