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Routes in White House Wall

*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Behind the Times T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Bower's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grounds for Divorce T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Division T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Prowness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swamp Donkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tap and Die T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Type: Trad, 300 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Andy Busse & Mark Paulson
Page Views: 117 total, 1/month
Shared By: Andy Busse on Oct 24, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Pitch 1 (5.10- 165'): The route starts out in a series of small, short, vertical cracks in the schist band and then gains a major hand crack which widens and leads past the Chemical Wire anchor. Continue up and left past the Chemical Wire anchor and through the left bulge. After the bulge continue up the crack system past another bolt to gain an anchor.

Pitch 2 (5.8 65')
Continue to follow the crack system through the wider off-width section which tapers back to hands; follow to the end of the crack and build an anchor. This is where the route has an "affair" with Political Prowess.

Pitch 3 (5.10- 70')
This is the last past pitch of Political Prowess; take a blind sloping ramp and traverse out right to gain a bolted face that leads to summit. The pitch is protected very well, except for the easy traverse.

  • **BEWARE** If you should decide to rap the route vs walk-off. 2 ropes are recommended; the mid-anchors are located 29m from the summit anchors.

Location

This is the crack system 10' right of Chemical Wire and 35' left of the 5.6 Chimney System that divides White House Wall.

Protection

Camalots #.4-#5 x 2, Stoppers, and Micro-Stoppers.

Photos

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