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Routes in White House Wall

*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Behind the Times T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Bolt of Rights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bower's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Brave Captain T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grounds for Divorce T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Division T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Prowness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swamp Donkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tap and Die T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 330 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Mark Rafferty, John Lang, Caleb Larimer, Austin Trupe Ground Up, 3/17
Page Views: 441 total · 25/month
Shared By: Mark Rafferty on Mar 30, 2017
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

This is the second and third pitch of Bowers Crack, should have been finished months ago but procrastination takes its toll. Really fun route that varies from fingers to hands on all pitches. Another great way to summit this wall.

P1: 5.9 80ft
Climb Bowers Crack, all gear to a 2 bolted belay ledge (mini).

P2: 5.9 90ft ****
Continue up tips seem. Traverse on good holds into a hand crack/chimney. Exit in front of horn to beginning of massive "hallway like" chimney. Immediately climb left up and over a finger crack to anchors of Jingoist on a comfy belay ledge.

P3: 5.9 160ft
From belay ledge traverse right into a crack which exits to a face (bolt). Pass the bolt and traverse back left to a series of cracks.(Thin) Here you meet up with jingoist. Follow mellow ground to the Garfield anchors.

Decent: Rappel the route. Two 70m get you to the base of Bowers Crack.

Location

far right of white house wall below massive chimney

Protection

double rack to #2, Nuts/RPs

Photos

Ryan Emery
Black Hills, SD
Ryan Emery   Black Hills, SD
Nice work on the route! Bowers crack was great, can't wait to get on the next two pitches! Mar 30, 2017

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