Type: Trad, 420 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Mike Engle, Verne Phinney
Page Views: 3,274 total · 14/month
Shared By: Bob Archbold on Jul 8, 2001
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Near the left side of the White House Wall, there is a prominent prow marked with a deep gash. The route starts directly behind "Read My Clips". Take the right to left diagonalling crack up for 50 feet thenstraight up the crack above to the natural belay. 1st pitch 100 feet. Second pitch traverse out about six feet then straight up to the overhanging block, undercling and jamming move out right till you gain a small pod at the bottom of a V formed by two cracks joining. Take the left hand crack up trending back to the right up some seams that can be protected with small brass nuts and stoppers. Follow this up and left clipping one bolt and make for the large chicken head. Here the taller you are the easier it is. Climb up to horizontal crack and set your belay.Second pitch is about 140 ft. The third pitch starts off to the right of the belay clipping another bolt and using stopper placements climb up to where you can set a belay to the left before the weakness that will take you around to the right. 3rd pitch about 100 feet. The fourth pitch you traverse to the right on a sloping face weakness. Follow this around until you see a line of bolts. Climb this face with the bolts. 4th pitch about 70 feet. Pitch 3 and 4 can actually be climbed in one long pitch, but I don't recommend it. The rope drag is terrible. I have done both ways in 3 pitches and 4 pitches. I prefer to do it in 4 pitches.

Protection

Double #00 - #2, SIngle #3, Nuts, many runners
2 rope rappel

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