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Routes in White House Wall

*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Behind the Times T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Bolt of Rights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bower's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Brave Captain T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Grounds for Divorce T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Division T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Prowness T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swamp Donkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tap and Die T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 70 ft
FA: Larry Shaffer-2000
Page Views: 1,439 total · 12/month
Shared By: Jason McNabb on Nov 10, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

The route starts on the left side of the arete that is just to the right of the start for Garfield (same as Tap and Die). Climb up and traverse right on to the flake where the small pine tree is growing on the arete. Climb to the top of the flake and turn the corner on the arete. You come back left again at the final bulge before the anchors. The route protects well with small gear, but you get out from your pro a little bit at times. Save a blue TCU for the final section. As always, make sure your placements count on this one. Shares anchors with Tap and Die and Eric's route to the right. One of the best routes for the grade at Rushmore.....quality

Protection

Doubles on small cams #00 to .75 BD, RP's, Nuts, Runners.

Note: The flake in the middle section is hollow sounding and thin, probably best to protect with nuts as cams might shear or pull the thing off.

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Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
 
Andy Busse   Rapid City, SD
 
Rated E for Everyone, as long as you take it when you get it, wife is good; beware, do not pass an opportunity if she is willing to give it up. Nov 12, 2008
josh balt
Hill City South Dakota
josh balt   Hill City South Dakota
Good route. I went right on accident instead of strait up and left at the end. Try it sometime the traverse is hard then you will get to the end of it and wish there was some gear. Aug 31, 2010
Justin Compton
Lafayette, CO
  5.10+ PG13
Justin Compton   Lafayette, CO
  5.10+ PG13
Don't underestimate this climb! A Wife Sentence it surely is... bold movements with some sketchy gear due to questionable rock in places, but if you take the time you'll find what your looking for. My fiancee eventually asked me if I was okay up there as I hadn't moved in quite awhile after announcing that I was 20 feet from the belay. I finally got a good piece in a little higher up the left corner from the arete and traversed up onto the anchor ledge, much humbler than before I started up the route. It would be quite a feat to on-sight this climb! Sep 6, 2016
Mark Rafferty
Rapid City, SD
  5.10b
Mark Rafferty   Rapid City, SD  
  5.10b
By far one of my favorite 5.10 trad routes in the hills. I disagree with the PG13 rating. Gear all throughout just have look for it. 4 Stars!! Sep 8, 2017
Daniel James
NYCish, NY.
Daniel James   NYCish, NY.
Great route! be careful with the last flake and cam placements at its top - you can feel it give when pulling on it. Jul 23, 2018

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