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Routes in White House Wall

*69 T,TR 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Behind the Times T 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c R
Bolt of Rights T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Bower's Crack T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Brave Captain T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Chemical Wire T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Garfield Goes To Washington T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garfield's Forgiven Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Grounds for Divorce T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
IHOP T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Jingoist, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Junta Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Political Affair T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Political Correctness T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Division T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Political Prowness T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Slant Crack T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smear Campaign T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Susi's Garden T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Swamp Donkey T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tap and Die T,TR 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Utter Butter on a Rope T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wife Sentence T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
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Type: Trad, 120 ft
FA: Bob Achbold
Page Views: 164 total · 2/month
Shared By: AhK on Sep 11, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Start by climbing a fun, blocky fist crack past some ledges. Continue up the sustained hand crack that swallows up gear, until it narrows and eventually disappears where a bolt protects the crux. After navigating the crux, sling the tree and enjoy a short, easy romp to the anchors.

The rock can be a bit sandy in a few places, but will clean up with traffic. Two 60m ropes or one 70m will get you back to the belay ledge of GGTW.

Location

From the first belay ledge of GGTW, climb the start of the second pitch, but instead of traversing right to gain the second belay ledge, continue straight up the crack past a tree to a two bolt anchor with webbing of various ages.

Protection

Nuts and cams to 3"
A #4 Camalot can be used to protect the start, but is not necessary.

Photos

Jimmy D
Rapid City
  5.10-
Jimmy D   Rapid City
  5.10-
Overall this route isn't terrible, however there is a HUGE lose block right by the anchors. Given that this route sits right above one of the most popular routes in Rushmore, I would not recommend it until the death block had been dealt with. May 12, 2016

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