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Areas in Emancipation

Dire Spire 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Emancipation Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 43 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 43
Five Card Draw 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Liberty Bell, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Pennsylvania Ave. 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Political Gamblers 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Truman Tower 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
White House Wall 21 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 21
Elevation: 5,339 ft
GPS: 43.881, -103.462 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 31,023 total, 165/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 1, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

Description

Emancipation Rockphormation is the epitome of Mount Rushmore climbing, a must do for any visiting climbers. Although much climbing is legal here, make sure that the rock that you are on is legal to avoid trouble (large fines and possibly jail for climbing or hiking in the wrong places). Boundary signs are in place to avoid crossing into the restricted areas.

This said, the legal areas on this wall are a great place to go. Relatively long routes (3 pitches) are found, and a lot of good cracks are available. Also, a wicked looking spire called Dire Spire is in the area which has some good routes on it.

7/1/10 ATTENTION: The boundary line has changed and is no longer the major gully. The new boundary is the top of White House Wall. This means the routes are still in the legal limits but you MUST RAPPEL and cannot walk-off White House Wall!
Check NPS for Closures Details

Getting There

From the stoplight at Mount Rushmore, drive about 1 mile away from Keystone and park at a pulloff on the right side of the road. This pulloff should be quite near Dire Spire, a large independent spire just east of the road.

82 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Emancipation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3+ 6A+
Slant Eyes
Boulder
V6 7A
What Lies Around the Corner
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Garfield Goes To Washington
Trad 3 pitches
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Royal Flush
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Political Prowness
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Garfield's Forgiven Affair
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
The Engagement
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Aces High
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wife Sentence
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Smear Campaign
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Read My Clips
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Ace in the Hole
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Chemical Wire
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Grounds for Divorce
Trad
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tap and Die
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Slant Eyes Emancipation Boul… > Dealership Area > Mini Marker V3+ 6A+ Boulder
What Lies Around the Corner Emancipation Boul… > Rdside Jumble > Lies Boulder V6 7A Boulder
Garfield Goes To Washington White House Wall 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Royal Flush Five Card Draw 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Political Prowness White House Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Garfield's Forgiven Affair White House Wall 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Engagement Dire Spire 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Aces High Political Gamblers 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Wife Sentence White House Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Smear Campaign White House Wall 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Read My Clips Pennsylvania Ave. 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Ace in the Hole Five Card Draw 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Chemical Wire White House Wall 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Grounds for Divorce White House Wall 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Tap and Die White House Wall 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in Emancipation »

Weather Averages

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Photos

if you do the garfield variation straight up past the tree it goes without saying to wear a helmet...almost took some rocks to the ol noggin. Aug 28, 2011
Andy Busse
Rapid City, SD
Andy Busse   Rapid City, SD  
That crack is IHOP 5.10
Bob Archbold route Nov 26, 2010
AhK
AhK  
Looking for information on a variation of Garfield. Instead of traversing to the ledge on P2, there is a crack that goes straight up past a tree to anchors with webbing. Anyone know anything about this crack? Nov 15, 2010
Aaron Costello
Rapid City, SD
Aaron Costello   Rapid City, SD
Brent et al.,

Is it possible for the BHCC to convince park rangers to take a day and remove the old, and currently bogus, "No Trespassing" signs? If there is one thing that is going to keep people from climbing, it's thinking they may be arrested or fined. Apr 22, 2006
Question...On Garfield, instead of traversing over below the roof a fingercrack keeps going up past a tree, close to the bottom of the roof. Does anyone know what it is, what it is rated, and how easily it is protected? Dec 27, 2005
Congratulations on the send of Profile/3 Musketeers. It must be 17+ years since it was "envisioned" by Vern? My generation truly owes a debt of gratitude to those from the previous generation (like Vern).

Great to hear the route's opened-up. - Mark J. Nov 6, 2005
VernI just spoke with Rob Pism about the first ascent of Profile 13a/b. He and his partners have given it the name of "Three Musketrre's". So if you are going to update the guide book you may make a note of this. I think they are coming back this weekend to try Paul Piana's Flamingo Drinker on Ottens Shoulder. Paul gave permission to open that one up. So Vern keep your pen ready for another update on this one. Oct 27, 2005
The profile route has seen a FA. Rob Pizm from Golden Colorado did the route this weekend giving it 13a/b. Good Job Rob. Sep 28, 2005
Eric Krantz
Black Hills
Eric Krantz   Black Hills
Interested to know more about the crack just to the right of Chemical Wire. The crack is the left side of a 'V', kinda offwidth, going up left towards the Chemical anchors. It's a good way to toprope chemical wire if, like me, it's beyond your ability. Jun 8, 2005

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