Elevation: 5,339 ft
GPS: 43.881, -103.462 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 89,427 total · 389/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 1, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty
Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Emancipation Rockphormation is the epitome of Mount Rushmore climbing, a must do for any visiting climbers. Although much climbing is legal here, make sure that the rock that you are on is legal to avoid trouble (large fines and possibly jail for climbing or hiking in the wrong places). Boundary signs are in place to avoid crossing into the restricted areas.

This said, the legal areas on this wall are a great place to go. Relatively long routes (3 pitches) are found, and a lot of good cracks are available. Also, a wicked looking spire called Dire Spire is in the area which has some good routes on it.

7/1/10 ATTENTION: The boundary line has changed and is no longer the major gully. The new boundary is the top of White House Wall. This means the routes are still in the legal limits but you MUST RAPPEL and cannot walk-off White House Wall!

Getting There

From the stoplight at Mount Rushmore, drive about 1 mile away from Keystone and park at a pulloff on the right side of the road. This pulloff should be quite near Dire Spire, a large independent spire just east of the road.

88 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Emancipation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V7 7A+
 10
Atomic Decay
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 25
Slant Crack
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 31
Conn Route
Trad 2 pitches
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 170
Garfield Goes To Washington
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 21
Aces High
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 18
Royal Flush
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Garfield's Forgiven Affair
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
The Engagement
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 16
Political Prowness
Trad 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 18
Wife Sentence
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 28
Smear Campaign
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 18
Read My Clips
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 13
Chemical Wire
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Tap and Die
Trad, TR
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Grounds for Divorce
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Atomic Decay Emancipation Bo… > Manhattan Boulders > Atomic Boulder
 10
V7 7A+ Boulder
Slant Crack White House Wall
 25
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Conn Route Dire Spire
 31
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 2 pitches
Garfield Goes To Washington White House Wall
 170
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Aces High Political Gamblers
 21
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Royal Flush Five Card Draw
 18
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Garfield's Forgiven Affair White House Wall
 18
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Engagement Dire Spire
 26
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Political Prowness White House Wall
 16
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Wife Sentence White House Wall
 18
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Smear Campaign White House Wall
 28
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Read My Clips Pennsylvania Ave.
 18
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Chemical Wire White House Wall
 13
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Tap and Die White House Wall
 8
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Grounds for Divorce White House Wall
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
More Classic Climbs in Emancipation »

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