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Emancipation Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Areas in Emancipation

Book Shop, The 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Clinton Tower, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Dire Spire 4 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7

Emancipation Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 44 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 44

Five Card Draw 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Liberty Bell, The 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1

Pennsylvania Ave. 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2

Political Gamblers 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

Truman Tower 3 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3

White House Wall 23 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 23

Elevation:	5,339 ft
GPS:	43.8807, -103.4619 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	119,550 total · 469/month
Shared By:	Peter Gram on Jul 1, 2002
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Emancipation Rockphormation is the epitome of Mount Rushmore climbing, a must do for any visiting climbers. Although much climbing is legal here, make sure that the rock that you are on is legal to avoid trouble (large fines and possibly jail for climbing or hiking in the wrong places). Boundary signs are in place to avoid crossing into the restricted areas.

This said, the legal areas on this wall are a great place to go. Relatively long routes (3 pitches) are found, and a lot of good cracks are available. Also, a wicked looking spire called Dire Spire is in the area which has some good routes on it.

7/1/10 ATTENTION: The boundary line has changed and is no longer the major gully. The new boundary is the top of White House Wall. This means the routes are still in the legal limits but you MUST RAPPEL and cannot walk-off White House Wall!

Getting There

From the stoplight at Mount Rushmore, drive about 1 mile away from Keystone and park at a pulloff on the right side of the road. This pulloff should be quite near Dire Spire, a large independent spire just east of the road.

89 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Emancipation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

V3 6A 18 ● The Cavity Boulder Emancipation Bo… > Upper Emancipation
V7 7A+ 12 ● Atomic Decay Boulder Emancipation Bo… > Manhattan Boulders > Atomic Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 34 ● Slant Crack Trad White House Wall
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R 32 ● Conn Route Trad 2 pitches Dire Spire
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 193 ● Garfield Goes To Washington Trad 3 pitches White House Wall
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 28 ● Aces High Trad Political Gamblers
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 23 ● Royal Flush Trad Five Card Draw
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 19 ● Garfield's Forgiven Affair Trad White House Wall
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b 28 ● The Engagement Sport Dire Spire
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 18 ● Political Prowness Trad 4 pitches White House Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 21 ● Wife Sentence Trad White House Wall
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 31 ● Smear Campaign Trad 3 pitches White House Wall
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 19 ● Read My Clips Sport Pennsylvania Ave.
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 13 ● Chemical Wire Trad White House Wall
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 9 ● Tap and Die Trad, TR White House Wall