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Elevation: 5,339 ft 1,627 m
GPS: 43.8807, -103.4619
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 120,182 total · 451/month
Shared By: Peter Gram on Jul 1, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty
Warning Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

Emancipation Rockphormation is the epitome of Mount Rushmore climbing, a must do for any visiting climbers. Although much climbing is legal here, make sure that the rock that you are on is legal to avoid trouble (large fines and possibly jail for climbing or hiking in the wrong places). Boundary signs are in place to avoid crossing into the restricted areas.

This said, the legal areas on this wall are a great place to go. Relatively long routes (3 pitches) are found, and a lot of good cracks are available. Also, a wicked looking spire called Dire Spire is in the area which has some good routes on it.

7/1/10 ATTENTION: The boundary line has changed and is no longer the major gully. The new boundary is the top of White House Wall. This means the routes are still in the legal limits but you MUST RAPPEL and cannot walk-off White House Wall!

Getting There Suggest change

From the stoplight at Mount Rushmore, drive about 1 mile away from Keystone and park at a pulloff on the right side of the road. This pulloff should be quite near Dire Spire, a large independent spire just east of the road.

92 Total Climbs

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Location: Emancipation Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Emancipation

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V3 6A
 19
The Cavity
Boulder
V7 7A+
 13
Atomic Decay
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 37
Slant Crack
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 204
Garfield Goes To Washington
Trad 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 30
Aces High
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 25
Royal Flush
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 19
Garfield's Forgiven Affair
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 30
The Engagement
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Political Prowness
Trad 4 pitches
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
 22
Wife Sentence
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 32
Smear Campaign
Trad 3 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 19
Read My Clips
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Tap and Die
Trad, TR
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
 4
Grounds for Divorce
Trad
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
 4
Behind the Times
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Cavity Emancipation Bo… > Upper Emancipation
 19
V3 6A Boulder
Atomic Decay Emancipation Bo… > Manhattan Boulders > Atomic Boulder
 13
V7 7A+ Boulder
Slant Crack White House Wall
 37
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Garfield Goes To Washington White House Wall
 204
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 3 pitches
Aces High Political Gamblers
 30
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Royal Flush Five Card Draw
 25
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Garfield's Forgiven Affair White House Wall
 19
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
The Engagement Dire Spire
 30
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Political Prowness White House Wall
 18
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 4 pitches
Wife Sentence White House Wall
 22
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13 Trad
Smear Campaign White House Wall
 32
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad 3 pitches
Read My Clips Pennsylvania Ave.
 19
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Tap and Die White House Wall
 9
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad, TR
Grounds for Divorce White House Wall
 4
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Trad
Behind the Times White House Wall
 4
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R Trad
More Classic Climbs in Emancipation »

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