Mountain Project: Climbing Mount Rushmore National Memorial

Mt. Rushmore National Memorial climbing offers amazing pegmatite granite climbing that ranges from 10' boulders to over 400' traditional routes all with great access. The area has climbing on every aspect, allowing the season to run from spring to fall with an occasional winter day (South Dakota Wx depending). Rock quality is generally very good, as is most protection.

Guidebooks:
Mt. Rushmore National Memorial Climbers Guide by Vernon R. Phinney

Free Camping: Wrinkled Rock

Main Hub: Rapid City

Getting There

From: Mt. Rushmore National Memorial Entrance stoplight.
Head west on SD-244 Peter Norbeck Scenic Hwy, away from Keystone for approx 1.1 mi. There will be a shoulder pull-off on the right hand side of the road. This is the Emancipation/ Inner Marker Parking Area.

Marker/Monster Parking Area, continue up the road approx (350') to approx the 1.2 mile mark from the entrance, to another shoulder pull-off on the left side of the road. There is a climbers sign-in kiosk at the entrance.

South Seas/Chopping Block Paved Parking Lot is approx (.4 mi) further up the road at approx the 1.6 mile mark from the entrance located adjacent to the Mt Rushmore Memorial Sign. There are climber sign-in kiosks on both sides of the road. SS is on the NE side of the road and Chopping Block is on the SW side of the road.

Wrinkled Rock Free Campground is another (.1 mi) up the road on the right at approx the 1.7 mile mark from the entrance, designated with a sign.

Breezy Point, continue up 244 an additional (.2 mi); it is on the right and also signed, it is located at approx the 1.9 mile mark from the entrance light.

Web Link to Google Map:
http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=0&msid=106144414968865585>>>>>

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Mount Rushmore National Memorial:

Orange Roughy V6 Boulder, 10 feet Old Baldy/ Mount Baldy : Orange Roughy Boulder

Bueno V9 Boulder, 15 feet South Seas Boulders

Gossamer 5.7 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet Monster : Picture Window

Solitaire 5.7 Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet South Seas : Borneo

Weird Water 5.7 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 140 feet Marker : Middle Marker

Garfield Goes To Washington 5.8 Trad, 3 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II Emancipation : White House Wall

Waves 5.8 Sport, 2 pitches, 180 feet South Seas : Shipyard Rock

Bolts for Bob 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 40 feet South Seas : Borneo

Star Dancer 5.8 Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet Marker : Middle Marker

W.A.S.P. (center variation start) 5.9 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 165 feet South Seas : Hornets Nest

Lead Fillings 5.9 Sport, 1 pitch, 100 feet South Seas : Child's Molar

Valdez Overhang 5.9 Sport, TR, 40 feet Chopping Block : Chopping Block

Baba Cool 5.9+ Sport, 1 pitch, 70 feet Chopping Block : Chopping Block

All Tuckered Out 5.10a Sport, 1 pitch, 50 feet South Seas : Shipyard Rock

Nitrous Rockcide 5.10b Trad, Sport, 1 pitch South Seas : Child's Molar

The Pollinator 5.10b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 110 feet South Seas : Hornets Nest

Pelican's Dyke 5.10c/d Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet South Seas : Borneo

Anaphylactic Shock 5.11- Sport, 1 pitch, 120 feet South Seas : Hornets Nest

Mr. Critical 5.11 Sport, 1 pitch, 140 feet South Seas : Hornets Nest

Ladies in Love aka: Lesbian Lovers 5.12b/c Sport, 1 pitch, 60 feet South Seas : Bird's Nest

Featured Route For Mount Rushmore National Memorial

Here's Nathan slapping the awesome <br />slopers of Wrestling the Buffalo. And that's <br />me waiting to give him a big hug.<br />Photo by David Asscherick.

Wrestling the Buffalo V5 SD : Mount Rushmore National Mem... : ... : Buffalo Boulder

"Wrestling the Buffalo" is a stellar problem on the northern side of this boulder working off of a nice sidepull with the right hand and a sloper on the left into a funky left foot sequence and a high reach with the right hand on the rib. The top out is pretty interesting, too. The landing would seem to be treacherous, but the fall is gentle and onto flat ground. A great problem....[more] Browse More Classics in SD

Comments on Mount Rushmore National Memorial

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By Jon Freeman
Apr 6, 2008

Howdy Andy... I just wanted to say I'm psyched to see that you're taking on this project! I just moved to the area, and right now this website is all I've got to work with. Sure, I'll hopefully be running into locals once the snow melts, but I'm a big fan of the guidebook idea regardless.

Since I just showed up I can't say I'll be much help with any beta, but hopefully you've gotten some positive responses from the locals. See you out there!

Jon

By Andy Busse
From: Rapid City, SD
Jul 2, 2009

Hello to All,

We have again set out to complete a new version of the Mount Rushmore National Memorial Rock Climbing Guidebook.

We surpassed the 100 page mark recently and would like to extend an invite to any developers to submit their contributions.

Areas to be included in the new version will encompass the terrain from Horsethief Lake to Raspberry Rocks.

Thanks,

Andy Busse

By Mikel Cronin
Sep 8, 2009

LaSportiva Shoe Demo at Beans and Biners Sat. Sept. 12th

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Mount Rushmore National Memorial

Description

Getting There

The Classics