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Star Dancer
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British
Type: | Sport, TR, 105 ft (32 m) |
FA: | Mike Engle, Vernon Phinney, Howard Doyle -1985 Ground Up |
Page Views: | 9,608 total · 36/month |
Shared By: | Anonymous Coward on Sep 30, 2001 |
Admins: | Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty |
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Description
Follow the directions under the Marker area. Star Dancer is found about 2/3 the way up the drainage / gully, on the right (of course). There is a large (20-30') boulder lying against the rock, Star Dancer starts just to the right of this.
As this is a popular route, you can scope the route by just looking at the polished / rubbed off holds all the way up the rock fin. The first bolt is a bit off the ground; one may clip it off the boulder if desired. After that, continue up the steep face choosing the biggest & best crystals you can find. If I remember correctly, there might be a bit of a friction move here & there, but for the most part there are nice, positive holds all the way. I don't recall the exact bolt count, but there are lots of them & the climb is a full 100'.
Descent is by rappelling the face you just climbed. By angling to the climber's left a 60m rope should just touch down. If you've got a 50m trail a second rope.
For additional fun, the climb Jupiter Fly By may be TR'd by rapping to climber's right to the JFB anchors. In a pinch this would be an alternate descent if you're stuck at the summit with a 50m rope...
As this is a popular route, you can scope the route by just looking at the polished / rubbed off holds all the way up the rock fin. The first bolt is a bit off the ground; one may clip it off the boulder if desired. After that, continue up the steep face choosing the biggest & best crystals you can find. If I remember correctly, there might be a bit of a friction move here & there, but for the most part there are nice, positive holds all the way. I don't recall the exact bolt count, but there are lots of them & the climb is a full 100'.
Descent is by rappelling the face you just climbed. By angling to the climber's left a 60m rope should just touch down. If you've got a 50m trail a second rope.
For additional fun, the climb Jupiter Fly By may be TR'd by rapping to climber's right to the JFB anchors. In a pinch this would be an alternate descent if you're stuck at the summit with a 50m rope...
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