All Locations > S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > Magna Carta > Marker > Middle Marker Area

Star Dancer

Name: Star Dancer
Rating: 3.4

5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British

Routes in Middle Marker Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Big Dripper T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Borealis Strut S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
	Broken Promises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
	Crystal Shard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Deja' Vu Prophecy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Don't Stahl S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Equinox S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Help s On the Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	IO S,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Is That Uranus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
	Jamais Vu T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Jupiter Fly By S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Kristallnacht S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
	Kuiper Cruise T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Little Dripper T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Lux Prima T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Make Believe S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Micro-Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Mintaka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Moonstone S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Orions Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	Pluto's Playground S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
	Raisins in the Sun T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
	Roadside Plum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
	Rum and Coke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Saturn Boogie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Skywalker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	SLAMAT S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Solo System S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Spacedust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
	Star Dancer S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Thunder Road S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Weird Dripper S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Weird Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type:	Sport, TR, 105 ft (32 m)
FA:	Mike Engle, Vernon Phinney, Howard Doyle -1985 Ground Up
Page Views:	9,608 total · 36/month
Shared By:	Anonymous Coward on Sep 30, 2001
Admins:	Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mikel Madsen, Mark Rafferty Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Follow the directions under the Marker area. Star Dancer is found about 2/3 the way up the drainage / gully, on the right (of course). There is a large (20-30') boulder lying against the rock, Star Dancer starts just to the right of this.

As this is a popular route, you can scope the route by just looking at the polished / rubbed off holds all the way up the rock fin. The first bolt is a bit off the ground; one may clip it off the boulder if desired. After that, continue up the steep face choosing the biggest & best crystals you can find. If I remember correctly, there might be a bit of a friction move here & there, but for the most part there are nice, positive holds all the way. I don't recall the exact bolt count, but there are lots of them & the climb is a full 100'.

Descent is by rappelling the face you just climbed. By angling to the climber's left a 60m rope should just touch down. If you've got a 50m trail a second rope.

For additional fun, the climb Jupiter Fly By may be TR'd by rapping to climber's right to the JFB anchors. In a pinch this would be an alternate descent if you're stuck at the summit with a 50m rope...