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Routes in Middle Marker Area

Big Dripper T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Borealis Strut S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Broken Promises T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Crystal Shard S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Deja' Vu Prophecy S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Don't Stahl S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Equinox S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Help s On the Way S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Is That Uranus S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Jupiter Fly By S,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Kristallnacht S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Little Dripper T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Make Believe S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Micro-Climb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mintaka T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Moonstone S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Orions Belt T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Raisins in the Sun T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Roadside Plum T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rum and Coke S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
SLAMAT S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Saturn Boogie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Skywalker S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Solo System S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Spacedust S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Star Dancer S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Weird Water T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, TR, 65 ft
FA: Bob Archbold, Rob Hess, D. Hilag-1988
Page Views: 638 total · 7/month
Shared By: Jon Marek on Jul 19, 2010
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

good crystal slab that follows a step water groove to the right of Star Dancer follow the steep black groove to its end and a large flake. Follow easier terrain to the anchor.

Location

left of make believe and right of star dancer on the first major blade as you enter the middle marker.

Protection

7 bolts shares anchor with Stardancer (5.8).

Photos

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Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.10
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.10
I am confused after ascending this route today. There are 8 bolts not 7 and what I climbed was a steep awkward face with the anchor off, lower and to the right,on the side of the formation. Definitely did NOT share an anchor with Star Dancer at the top (as wrongly stated here and in Burr and Busse) and was not slabby though it did ascend a water chute. Had to be JFB though as it was the only route between Star Dancer and Make Believe? This route also felt hard for the grade (though I know Magna Carta is a somewhat stiff crag)with a real stinger of a crux move and some loose crystals (broke off two) and took an awkward whipper. Burr and Busse rarely gets things wrong but either I'm really missing something or there is a mistake here... Any clarification would be appreciated. Jul 12, 2016

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