Type: Trad, Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Piana, McMann, Whistler, Skinner - 10/89
Page Views: 12,372 total · 55/month
Shared By: Anonymous Coward on Apr 30, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Directions to the route may be found under the 'Rock' description of Picture Window. You'll know you're there when you see folks waiting for the route.

Seriously, it took until my 6th visit to Rushmore before I caught this route with no one on it. A cool rock graced with an incredible route. Very popular and deservedly so.

Gossamer climbs the right side of the fin / arete up to, beside, and over the hole (picture window) in the rock. The start is a bit of an awkward (yet easy) move up to a block and the start of the fin. As the ground drops off beneath the climb, it is wise to protect the first moves with a stopper (#10 BD?) or cam.

Once on the block, layback the fin, and start moving up clipping the bolts. With each move, the angle of the fin lessens and makes things just a bit easier. Once at the apex of the rock, you'll find 2 'quick clip' type anchors - slip the rope in & get lowered to the ground. Because of the nature of the route, it needs to be seconded to be cleaned, and rigging a TR wouldn't really work.

The climb is rated 5.7 and the moves are 5.7, but has a certain intimidation factor. A fall for the leader OR second could get a bit messy. As with so many climbs in the Black Hills, this isn't sport climbing - it is bolt protected climbing.

Protection

4 bolts = 4 draws, probably a nut (or two) for the start.

Photos