Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Duane Martenson, Mikel Cronin, Brent Kertzman-2005
Page Views: 2,651 total · 17/month
Shared By: Brent Kertzman on Oct 30, 2007
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

This route is a six bolt variation and direct start to the first pitch of W.A.S.P. There is a stemming/lieback crux in the shallow dihedral followed by an easier crux on the steep face just below joining the original route W.A.S.P. at the large ledge.

Start climbing up a short slab just right of the original start to W.A.S.P. Move right on the ledge then start clipping bolts while climbing up a left facing dihedral. At the top of the dihedral move right onto juggy wind sculpted face climbing on beautiful brown stone. At the large ledge follow W.A.S.P. to the top of the first pitch to finish.

Shorter climbers might find this route harder than 5.10.

Location

The start of this route is on the southeast corner of Hornet's Nest and just right of the corridor between Horent's Nest and the Shipyard.

One 60 Meter rope will get you very close to the ground for the descent.

Protection

12 Bolts Total, A couple of longer quick draws might be wise too alleviate potential rope drag on the upper section of W.A.S.P.

Photos