Type: Sport, 110 ft
FA: Duane Martenson, Mikel Cronin, Brent Kertzman-2005
Page Views: 2,175 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brent Kertzman on Oct 30, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route

46 Opinions

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details


This route is a six bolt variation and direct start to the first pitch of W.A.S.P. There is a stemming/lieback crux in the shallow dihedral followed by an easier crux on the steep face just below joining the original route W.A.S.P. at the large ledge.

Start climbing up a short slab just right of the original start to W.A.S.P. Move right on the ledge then start clipping bolts while climbing up a left facing dihedral. At the top of the dihedral move right onto juggy wind sculpted face climbing on beautiful brown stone. At the large ledge follow W.A.S.P. to the top of the first pitch to finish.

Shorter climbers might find this route harder than 5.10.


The start of this route is on the southeast corner of Hornet's Nest and just right of the corridor between Horent's Nest and the Shipyard.

One 60 Meter rope will get you very close to the ground for the descent.


12 Bolts Total, A couple of longer quick draws might be wise too alleviate potential rope drag on the upper section of W.A.S.P.


Byron J. Hastings
Mystic, SD
Byron J. Hastings   Mystic, SD
The first crux is reachy for me (i'm 5'6") and might be a one move 5.11-. Nov 2, 2007
chris tregge
chris tregge   Beersconsin  
Fun route. Some locals that came by as I was hanging out in the dihedral before the lower crux said it was 10c (we had no idea, just looked like a fun route). That gave me enough confidence to just go for it. I think 10c or possibly 10d is fair considering the lower crux and a spot or two up higher. Jul 31, 2008
Rika J.
Rika J.   Colorado
The moves over the two bulges are definitely quite a bit harder for shorter people. I thought the crux was moving over the first bulge and my much taller partner thought the crux was higher. Either way, excellent route! Sep 3, 2016