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Routes in Hornets Nest

Anaphylactic Shock S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beetle Juice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Butterfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hornet's Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lonesome Cowboy T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mothra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Critical S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Critical Variation S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pollinator, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Second Hand Rose Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swarm S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Vespidae S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
W.A.S.P. (center variation start) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 155 ft
FA: Gary Geraths, Joyce Hesselgrave 1981
Page Views: 8,768 total, 47/month
Shared By: Andrew Gram on Jul 17, 2002
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

Most of this very good route is only 5.5 or so. Just left of the Sharkstooth and the All Tuckered Out, look for a pod with crystals leading up to an appealing narrow ridge. Alternatively, there is a bolted variation on the face just left of the pod and black water streak.

Climb the face to the right at 5.6 to gain the ridge. The easy 5.5 ridge is one of the best pieces of climbing at Rushmore - fun, exposed, and very unique climbing. There are chains at the top now. A 60 meter line makes it to the ground.

Protection

9 bolts.
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
 
Brad Schildt   Boulder, CO
 
For clarification regarding the rappel: if you stop at the first chains on the shoulder, you can reach the ground with 1 60 meter rope. If you continue to the top of the formation and rap off the chains for Mr. Critical, you will need 2 ropes. Oct 2, 2017
Alex Zucca
University Heights
 
Alex Zucca   University Heights
 
A 60m rope touches the ground with about 2 feet to spare when rappelling from this route. May 20, 2016
Did this route once my first year ever climbing with my friend Devin and did it two more times several years later (Last year). Only a 5.6 but very fun and great for a first time intro to Rushmore to show new climbing friends a good time! Mar 10, 2015
adamD  
As of 8/26/2014 the face-climb variation to the left at the start, has been un-bolted. The hangers are removed from the first 2(?) bolts, so there is just a bare threaded rod sticking out. Maybe some folks prefer the easier alt route 15 feet to the right, but as far as I can read here, the face climb is the original and should have been left up. Sep 2, 2014
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.7
Mark Orsag   Omaha, NE
  5.7
Great and unique climbing. Beginning is a bit awkward and confusing with the two alternate starts. Some moves felt 5.8ish, but after the low bolt on the direct start, it was hard to tell which path you were taking down low. As noted by others here, it looks maybe a bit easier to the right (didn't go that way). For the second though, that would entail some pendulum risk. Expect an "old school" 5.6 at any rate. The arĂȘte itself is fun and wonderful with unique flowing movement and amazing exposure. A classic! 60m raps to ground with inches to spare... Jul 21, 2014
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
 
Kiri Namtvedt   Minneapolis, MN
 
This is a tremendously fun route! And long! I believe there were at least ten bolts, and it never felt too run out. Jun 19, 2013
SteveRRG
  5.7
SteveRRG  
  5.7
I think there were actually 10 bolts and the route is about 115' from the belayer. Rapping off the side with a 60m ropes gets safely to the ground. I wish I had taken a couple of cams. A #1 would have been nice between a couple of bolts, but the climbing was easy. A fall off the right side into the gulley would be painful though. Jul 4, 2012
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.7+
Paul Huebner   Portage, WI
  5.7+
I got sucked into heading to the left after clipping the second bolt and had to traverse back since the route goes straight up instead. I believe from the second bolt to the arete it's 5.7+. The exposure on the left when on the easy 5.4 arete and the rap is awesome. Reminds me a little of Solitaire. Sep 17, 2011
Cody Brechtel
Glendale, AZ
 
Cody Brechtel   Glendale, AZ
 
Don't lower from this route, have someone follow and clean.... rap down! Aug 11, 2011
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.8
Joe M   Beckley, wv
  5.8
This is such a great route! THis is especially great for those who love a "little" exposure, just look off to your left when going up the rib! Jun 8, 2010
Aaron Costello
Rapid City, SD
 
Aaron Costello   Rapid City, SD
 
I think this is a great route. It is now well protected, with maybe 8-9 new SS bolts (Thanks Ron and the BHCC!). I used runners on each bolt and still got a little rope drag towards the top. I put some slings around the large horn on top to belay. There are also new rap anchors. A single 60M rope will get you to the ground. Aug 25, 2008
My wife and I (Gary Geraths, Joyce Hesselgrave) put up this route in the summer oof '81. We had to borrow the bolting gear from various folks in the area ("second hand rose"). I liked the ridge too. Great view. Though my wife was trilled about being on the first acsent the romance with the area disappeared the next day when she was hit by a tour bus. I went along to put up a couple of route the next few days after with Paul Piana. Thanks for the site. Sep 8, 2003