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Routes in Hornets Nest

Anaphylactic Shock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beetle Juice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Butterfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hornet's Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lonesome Cowboy T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mothra S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Critical S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Critical Variation S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pollinator, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Second Hand Rose Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swarm S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Vespidae S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
W.A.S.P. (center variation start) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 140 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 572 total · 16/month
Shared By: Brent Barghahn on May 4, 2015
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Great squeezing with airy stances. Not as dirty as it appears below.

Follow the chimney up to the large roof. Squeeze out and up past the roof, enjoying the open air below. Follow the left arete to anchors at the summit.

Two single rope rappels or one double rope rappel

Location

The continuous chimney under the large roof on the NE side of the formation. Just up the gully from Beetlejuice

Protection

0.4-#4, optional #5

Photos

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Andrew Schrader
Helena, Montana
 
Andrew Schrader   Helena, Montana
 
A local suggested I went left below roof at horizontal crack, build a belay then work up other chimney to ridge. Have to climb mossy low angle slab to build a belay and pull through a #6 roof. It goes but not recommended.

A 5 and 6 were both nice to have to stay further out in the chimney vs fishing smaller gear into the cracks at the back. Jul 5, 2017

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