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Routes in Hornets Nest

Anaphylactic Shock S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beetle Juice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Bug's Tomorrow S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Butterfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hornet's Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lonesome Cowboy T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mothra S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Mr. Critical S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Critical Variation S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pollinator, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Second Hand Rose Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swarm S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vespidae S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
W.A.S.P. (center variation start) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, Sport, 165 ft
FA: Mike Engle, Linda Scneider--1987
Page Views: 3,641 total · 27/month
Shared By: joelhagan Hagan on Oct 24, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

This is a nice solid 5.9 which is consistent and fun. The Bottom third is blocky/oververtical with big holds. The middle gets thin with nice little crimps. When in doubt, (you'll know it when you get there)go left even though there are temptations to the right. The distinct crux is at about halfway.
The cracks at the bottom are protectable with nuts or small cams and is one variation to W.A.S.P. The bolted route "pollinator" about 8 feet right of the crack also appears to be an excellent climb.
The flake I'm describing is at the edge of the shadow in the beta photo and is apparently the center version of the original start to W.A.S.P.

Location

The center variation for W.A.S.P. is on the Southeast side of Hornet's Nest. Belay next to the ramp leading to the starts for the variations of waves.

Protection

This was originally well bolted on the upper section with 5 bolts and the original start being protectable with cracks and flakes (apparently somewhere up the gully between Hornet's Nest and Shipyard Rock). Bring at least 14 draws to get to the top. I would suggest using some shoulders length runners to avoid rope drag.
If you run out of draws or desire you can belay at a lower set of anchors on a very nice ledge, or continue through a nice chunky section to a great summit with excellent views. Both anchors require a two rope rappel if you aim the ropes to the base of the climb described.

Photos

Gary Schmidt
Boulder, CO
5.10a
Gary Schmidt   Boulder, CO
5.10a
Spicy climb, especially for a 5.9. Keeps on going and going so be ready. Good climb though. Jan 20, 2010

More About W.A.S.P. (center variation start)

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