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Routes in Hornets Nest

Anaphylactic Shock S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Beetle Juice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Butterfly S 5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Hornet's Chimney T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Lonesome Cowboy T,TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Mothra S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Mr. Critical S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Mr. Critical Variation S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pollinator, The S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Second Hand Rose Arete S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Swarm S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Vespidae S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
W.A.S.P. (center variation start) T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: Greg Child-1988
Page Views: 1,147 total, 6/month
Shared By: Dan Dewell on Sep 30, 2001
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Critical Cowboy and Lonesome Cowboy are on the Honeycomb Wall, I believe. At the South Seas sign-in, take the left trail and walk about fifty meters. Both of these routes are on your right, to the right of Mr. Critical. Critical Cowboy joins up with Mr. Critical for a few bolts, if you want to take this line.

However, with a cam, you can bring the crack into the Lonesome Cowboy route, if that isn't the intended line. Lonesome Cowboy, is a very cool route, but can be a little confusing as to which way you should go.

I enjoy venturing up, then out to the left, up the obvious crack, then cutting back to the right following the crack, place a cam in the crack, and head up and right. The bolt line doesn't make sense at times, in my opinion, but the route is a blast despite the confusion. There is also a funky mantle up high that is unforgettable. Very similar to the mantle on NutraSweet, but a little harder.

This route can be top-roped easily with two ropes at least fifty meters in length. One 60m rope (I have heard, but not experienced) can get you down from the top, with little to spare at the bottom. I have seen this done, but not done it personally. You can always play it safe with two 50/60m ropes.

Protection

At least, bring ten draws (maybe more), and a medium-sized cam with a two foot runner.

Photos

John Lang
Rapid City
 
John Lang   Rapid City
 
I did not redpoint it. I wish! I made it through the first crux down low without a problem. I popped off the the second crux, the upper overhang(y) section, a couple times. I am not sure about the rating... definitely in the upper 12s but then again I haven't been on too many.. Oct 27, 2015
Mike Madsen
Rapid City
 
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
 
Did you redpoint? To my knowledge and experience with this route. Some of the stronger climbers in the area have agreed this is one of the harder climbs. This route packs a punch you will be hurting. Its long and fairly sustained to the top. Congrats if you redpointed! Grade? I have heard a few numbers thrown around. :) May 28, 2015
John Lang
Rapid City
 
John Lang   Rapid City
 
This route is very confusing. I found 7 bolts on the way up, following the book topo view. Make sure to bring some gear unless you want a very long (and just a frightening) runout about halfway up. Mar 25, 2015
This route can be top roped with 1 60 m rope but do be careful Sep 15, 2003