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Second Hand Rose Arete

5.6, Sport, 155 ft,  Avg: 3.5 from 177 votes
FA: Gary Geraths, Joyce Hesselgrave 1981
S Dakota > Needles Of Rush… > Mt Rushmore Nat… > S Seas > Hornets Nest
Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

Most of this very good route is only 5.5 or so. Just left of the Sharkstooth and the All Tuckered Out, look for a pod with crystals leading up to an appealing narrow ridge. Alternatively, there is a bolted variation on the face just left of the pod and black water streak.

Climb the face to the right at 5.6 to gain the ridge. The easy 5.5 ridge is one of the best pieces of climbing at Rushmore - fun, exposed, and very unique climbing. There are chains at the top now. A 60 meter line makes it to the ground.

Protection

9 bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Star trail taken as Mark Rafferty and Isaac Bradsky climb Second Hand Rose Arete
[Hide Photo] Star trail taken as Mark Rafferty and Isaac Bradsky climb Second Hand Rose Arete
Mark Rafferty night climbing on Second Hand Rose
[Hide Photo] Mark Rafferty night climbing on Second Hand Rose
Photo by Alex Winters.
[Hide Photo] Photo by Alex Winters.
View after climbing to the very top at sunrise
[Hide Photo] View after climbing to the very top at sunrise
Safety is no accident! It's just a 5.6 sport route - who needs a helmet? Answer: anyone who wants to save some blood from the sharp overhang at the last bolt.
[Hide Photo] Safety is no accident! It's just a 5.6 sport route - who needs a helmet? Answer: anyone who wants to save some blood from the sharp overhang at the last bolt.
Byron cruising up the beautiful arete.
[Hide Photo] Byron cruising up the beautiful arete.
Paul Huebner rapping off of Second Hand Rose Arete. (Photo by Lenore Sobota)
[Hide Photo] Paul Huebner rapping off of Second Hand Rose Arete. (Photo by Lenore Sobota)
Taking in the view at the top.
[Hide Photo] Taking in the view at the top.
Rapping off hornets nest
[Hide Photo] Rapping off hornets nest
Topped Out
[Hide Photo] Topped Out
Anne Meyer leading Second Hand Rose Arete
[Hide Photo] Anne Meyer leading Second Hand Rose Arete
Working up the arete
[Hide Photo] Working up the arete

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] My wife and I (Gary Geraths, Joyce Hesselgrave) put up this route in the summer oof '81. We had to borrow the bolting gear from various folks in the area ("second hand rose"). I liked the ridge too. Great view. Though my wife was trilled about being on the first acsent the romance with the area disappeared the next day when she was hit by a tour bus. I went along to put up a couple of route the next few days after with Paul Piana. Thanks for the site. Sep 8, 2003
Aaron Costello
Rapid City, SD
 
[Hide Comment] I think this is a great route. It is now well protected, with maybe 8-9 new SS bolts (Thanks Ron and the BHCC!). I used runners on each bolt and still got a little rope drag towards the top. I put some slings around the large horn on top to belay. There are also new rap anchors. A single 60M rope will get you to the ground. Aug 25, 2008
Joe M
Beckley, wv
  5.8
[Hide Comment] This is such a great route! THis is especially great for those who love a "little" exposure, just look off to your left when going up the rib! Jun 8, 2010
Cody Brechtel
Glendale, AZ
 
[Hide Comment] Don't lower from this route, have someone follow and clean.... rap down! Aug 11, 2011
Paul Huebner
Portage, WI
  5.7+
[Hide Comment] I got sucked into heading to the left after clipping the second bolt and had to traverse back since the route goes straight up instead. I believe from the second bolt to the arete it's 5.7+. The exposure on the left when on the easy 5.4 arete and the rap is awesome. Reminds me a little of Solitaire. Sep 17, 2011
SteveRRG
  5.7
[Hide Comment] I think there were actually 10 bolts and the route is about 115' from the belayer. Rapping off the side with a 60m ropes gets safely to the ground. I wish I had taken a couple of cams. A #1 would have been nice between a couple of bolts, but the climbing was easy. A fall off the right side into the gulley would be painful though. Jul 4, 2012
Kiri Namtvedt
Minneapolis, MN
 
[Hide Comment] This is a tremendously fun route! And long! I believe there were at least ten bolts, and it never felt too run out. Jun 19, 2013
Mark Orsag
Omaha, NE
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Great and unique climbing. Beginning is a bit awkward and confusing with the two alternate starts. Some moves felt 5.8ish, but after the low bolt on the direct start, it was hard to tell which path you were taking down low. As noted by others here, it looks maybe a bit easier to the right (didn't go that way). For the second though, that would entail some pendulum risk. Expect an "old school" 5.6 at any rate. The arĂȘte itself is fun and wonderful with unique flowing movement and amazing exposure. A classic! 60m raps to ground with inches to spare... Jul 21, 2014
[Hide Comment] As of 8/26/2014 the face-climb variation to the left at the start, has been un-bolted. The hangers are removed from the first 2(?) bolts, so there is just a bare threaded rod sticking out. Maybe some folks prefer the easier alt route 15 feet to the right, but as far as I can read here, the face climb is the original and should have been left up. Sep 2, 2014
[Hide Comment] Did this route once my first year ever climbing with my friend Devin and did it two more times several years later (Last year). Only a 5.6 but very fun and great for a first time intro to Rushmore to show new climbing friends a good time! Mar 10, 2015
Alex Zucca
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] A 60m rope touches the ground with about 2 feet to spare when rappelling from this route. May 20, 2016
Brad Schildt
Boulder, CO
 
[Hide Comment] For clarification regarding the rappel: if you stop at the first chains on the shoulder, you can reach the ground with 1 60 meter rope. If you continue to the top of the formation and rap off the chains for Mr. Critical, you will need 2 ropes. Oct 2, 2017