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Routes in Orange Roughy Boulder

Orange Roughy V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Larry Schaefer (stand up version), mid-1980s
Page Views: 1,432 total, 8/month
Shared By: Dan Dewell on Jun 19, 2003
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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22 Opinions

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Description

"Orange Roughy" begins as a sit-start on slopey sidepulls on the beautiful orange dyke thing on the northern side of the boulder.

Move the left hand to a gaston, bring the right over it to a decent lie-back/sidepull. Match and bring the right hand up high on this sidepull thing.Feet are tricky here. Do a stemming action on both sides of the dyke/sidepulls&slopers. Move with right hand up and to the sloper, then the left on top above it.Once the left hand is high on the other sloper, reach up with the right to the pinch, I believe, then pop to the jug up top. It's good up there.

Protection

Pad and spotter. Excellent landing.
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
 
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
 
sharp! May 7, 2011
Snake Ferguson
Rapid City, SD
Snake Ferguson   Rapid City, SD
Can't wait to send the sitstart of this interesting problem. Thanks to Terry and Dale for the beta! Nov 22, 2009
Jonathan Williams
Minneapolis
  V6-
Jonathan Williams   Minneapolis
  V6-
Ow! That left hand gaston hurts!

I couldn't get the first two moves off the ground, but did the rest from a match on the incut. Damn long legs and damn sitstarts.

Stellar line. Can't wait to get back.

edit (9 years later): doesn't hurt that bad, i didn't find it to be that sharp after a few more years experience. Jun 24, 2008
Kai Segrud  
 
Anyone think this feels easier than Anomaly? Mar 15, 2008
I added the SDS in the 1870s. Need some pics of someone on this thing. Dec 31, 2003