Elevation: 5,376 ft
GPS: 43.891, -103.457 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 134,184 total · 614/month
Shared By: Dan Dewell on Aug 27, 2002
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty
Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

The Baldy area is primarily a bouldering area with some sport and traditional climbing available. The rock is primarily granite and demanding on the tips. Bouldering is excellent during all times of year, except in the scorching heat of summer, where your fingertips are lost VERY easily.

Bouldering ranges from V0- to the upper limits of human abilities and pain tolerance. There are many classic problems to do and many that should be done in the future. Landings are generally excellent with a few exceptions. One or more pads and spotters are always recommended and encouraged.

Getting There

From South Seas Area sign-in, walk to the right and make a quick left through a gully that leads downhill. A path is readily available at this moment, and leads to the east in an obvious line through the South Seas Area.

After about five minutes, this path intersects another path leading to the North or to the South. Take the right pathway (South), in the direction of Lonesome Boulder (?), for about ten minutes or less. On your left, another, less obvious, path will form in a bunch of smaller pine trees after a cool looking granite 'sculpture.' Walk this way and follow the path as best you can. It will lead up hill to the left, then flatten out, then uphill, again.

Generally, Baldy is teaming with boulders and if you get lost, there is always something to hop on. The most popular areas are to the South and to the West of the granite monstrosity, but explore, and you will find your own special playgrounds. There is obvious potential for crack-climbing and face-climbing in every area of Baldy, and many of each have been done in certain areas.

230 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Baldy

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 31
The Warmup at the Halfways
Boulder
V3 6A
 13
The Hurt Locker
Boulder
V4-5 6B+
 32
Wrestling With A Buffalo
Boulder
V5 6C
 9
Anomaly
Boulder
V5 6C
 16
Skypager
Boulder
V6 7A
 28
Orange Roughy
Boulder
V7 7A+
 19
Seul Avec Dieu
Boulder
V7 7A+
 24
The Cheat
Boulder
V7 7A+
 7
Flesh Wound
Boulder
V7-8 7B
 10
Torso Fritter
Boulder
V8 7B
 10
Black Roughy aka God Is Love
Boulder
V9 7C
 6
Virgin Martini
Boulder
V10 7C+
 5
The Prow
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Rogaine with Minoxidil
Trad, Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Chrome Dome
Sport 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Warmup at the Halfways Almost There Boulders
 31
V2 5+ Boulder
The Hurt Locker Old Baldy Front… > Hurt Locker Boulder
 13
V3 6A Boulder
Wrestling With A Buffalo Old Baldy Front… > Buffalo Boulder
 32
V4-5 6B+ Boulder
Anomaly Old Baldys Melo… > Anomaly Boulder
 9
V5 6C Boulder
Skypager Camp Judson Rd > Cell One Valley > A Tribe Called Quest…
 16
V5 6C Boulder
Orange Roughy Old Baldy Front… > Orange Roughy Boulder
 28
V6 7A Boulder
Seul Avec Dieu Old Baldy Front… > Seul Avec Dieux Boulder
 19
V7 7A+ Boulder
The Cheat Irie Heights > N Nostril Cave
 24
V7 7A+ Boulder
Flesh Wound Irie Heights > Irie Heights Boulder
 7
V7 7A+ Boulder
Torso Fritter Almost There Boulders
 10
V7-8 7B Boulder
Black Roughy aka God Is Love God Is Love Boulder
 10
V8 7B Boulder
Virgin Martini Irie Heights > Irie Heights Boulder
 6
V9 7C Boulder
The Prow Old Baldy Front… > Seul Avec Dieux Boulder
 5
V10 7C+ Boulder
Rogaine with Minoxidil Old Baldy
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad, Sport 2 pitches
Chrome Dome Old Baldy
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
More Classic Climbs in Mount Baldy »

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