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Routes in Shakers

Butter Knife T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Dark Tower T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Going Down to Harlem with a Turd in My Shorts S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Joint Effort S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little Gremlins T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nightman Cometh, The S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Pointy Little Devil S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Salt and Pepper Shaker T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Skid Marks S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Troll Toll T,S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Where You Been?! S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 115 ft
FA: Bob Archbold and Vern Phinney 1989 ground up
Page Views: 3,547 total · 35/month
Shared By: Jon Marek on Feb 5, 2010 with updates from Brok Dixon
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Access Issue: Check NPS for Closures Details

Description

From the climbers check in, head left down the trail. After going about 40 feet, turn right and then scramble up some boulders. After going up the boulders for about 20 feet the route will be about 15 feet on your right.
Protection: 11 quickdraws plus an additional two for the anchors. A total of 13 draws total.

Begin by climbing up the north ramp to a bolt. Fun delicate climbing on the face and arete with well placed bolts. Excellent summit!

Location

Scramble up the gully with the initial "sidewalk ledge". The Pointy Little Devil is the spire on the right side of the gully directly across from the cleft which brakes off to Abominable Snowman (down and right) or the Shakers (up and left).

Protection

12 bolts
chain anchor
Joe M
Beckley, wv
Joe M   Beckley, wv
Thats a pretty weak route description for such a great route May 1, 2011
Jon Marek
Sioux Falls, SD
 
Jon Marek   Sioux Falls, SD
 
Sorry about that...edited to be less sucky Mar 6, 2012
Rich F.
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
Rich F.   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.8
This is a nice, long, route. It requires thoughtful moves at the 5.8 crux, but the bolts are well placed to protect the climbing. Nice pointy little summit, too. Jul 8, 2012
A brand new 60m rope is about a foot short of touching the ground with rope stretch when rappelling. Maybe you can rap into the gully to climbers left and downclimb. Not top ropeable. Jul 15, 2017
Andy Eiter
Madison, WI
  5.8
Andy Eiter   Madison, WI
  5.8
Old 60m rope had about a foot to spare on the rappel. Trust the stretch.

Without stretch, you could still get down to the ramp on the left and easily/safely downclimb. May 29, 2018
John Merth
Minneapolis
  5.9
John Merth   Minneapolis
  5.9
featureless face/ slab climbing. Jul 6, 2018

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