Skywalker 5.8
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| Type: | Trad, 5 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Jeremy Frimer (2011) Parts of pitches 2 & 3: Dick Culbert & Mike Warr (1967) |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Submitted By: | Mark Roberts on Jul 3, 2011 |
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BETA PHOTO: Topo for Skywalker and variations, courtesy of Jer...
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Description Something of a phenomenom, this route became immensely popular almost overnight. Seems to illustrate a deep-seated desire in the community for beginner routes lacking gear belays and runouts.
Pitch 1: Up a seepy crack or the slab beside it to a finger crack, then traverse right across a slab protected by two extremely close bolts and up a finger crack to the anchors. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch 2: "The Flume" Wedge yourself in a compressed left-facing corner crack depressingly devoid of typical 5.8 bomber fingerlocks. 5.8, 25m.
Pitch 3: "The Fork" A jug/flake pulling romp along the right of two splitting cracks, up to a thought-provoking move before the anchor. 5.7, 30m.
Pitch 4: "Skywalker" Traverse right along a juggy, slabby undercling Exposed for the grade. 5.5, 20m.
Pitch 5: Romp upward over stumps past a fist-crack move, then race up an easy slab past four bolts. 5.4, 30m.
There are a series of harder variations, note the topo I've attached, drawn up by Mr. Frimer. I haven't tried any, but if this route is below your level I might recommend trying one of them as the upper pitches of Skywalker are a bit tame.
Location Follow the trail to the right of Local Boys Slab, just passed Magic Carpet Ride and Not Your Normal Nightmare. Easy to find, look for a bolt ten feet up one foot to the left of a crack. Walk off to the right (Shannon Pools to the left).
Protection I didn't place a cam bigger than a .5 Camelot, but would recommend doubles finger sizes. There are places for gear as big as a #4, but you'd be fine with cams to one inch and one set of nuts.
All fixed anchors, sometimes several? I guess to deal with the crowds that are already an issue.
Dawn getting ready for the fabulously exposed skyw...
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Winnie running through the slab near the top of P1...
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Winnie running up the final pitch on Skywalker
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gblauer nearing the top of P3 on Skywalker. This ...
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Dawn a bit further along the traverse.
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Gail and Winnie at the top of P3. Right at the st...
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BETA PHOTO: The start of the EPB Variation (soft 5.10a)
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BETA PHOTO: The finish of the EPB Variation (soft 5.10a).
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pitch 1
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One of several belay stations at the top of pitch ...
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pitch 4 traverse
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pitch 4
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Flume Pitch on Skywalker. 6/2011
Photo: Reed Cusa...
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Catherine on the money pitch
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By gblauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 7, 2011
| OMG, this was an amazingly fun climb. Each pitch very different from the rest. Lots of fun all the way up.
Don't forget to see Shannon Falls on the way out (go left at the fork) it's gorgeous. |
By Andy Laakmann
Site Landlord
From: Bend, OR
Aug 13, 2011
| Haven't climbed Skywalker yet, but we were at Shannon Falls climbing other routes today as I observed a constant parade of parties on Skywalker.
I suspect this route will quickly unseat Diedre as the most popular climb in Canada!
It looks like way more fun than Diedre too! |
By Colin Parker
Administrator
From: Idyllwild, CA
Aug 15, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Climbed this on Saturday. We chose the 5.10a EPB finish. It was safe and secure for a 5.10a and the moves were straightforward. I think most 5.9 leaders could send it without too much trouble, so consider it if you'd like an additional challenge or alternative to the easier traditional finish. Great fun! |
By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From: North Vancouver, BC
Aug 18, 2011
| Went to do it on a Wednesday evening and found two parties already on it. We went and did a few other routes and came back to do it before the sun set. It looks like there will almost always be lines for this one...
Almost too comfortized, but definitely fun and good to have such a nice route at the grade. The second pitch is surprisingly intimidating looking from below, but really is just a nice 5.8. |
By Cat Cahoon
From: Seattle, WA
Aug 30, 2011
| We hiked in for the route on Sunday- Fat chance! take a number. So we were the first party on it Monday. There were immediately two parties after us. The bottom of the first pitch was wet. I thought the traverse was 5.8. And the moves at the end of the third pitch are thought provoking as well. All the pitches are really fun climbing! |
By John Tennant
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.8
| Heads up on the first slab by traverse as well as the sting in the tail on the third pitch. Seriously fun and amazing route. Instant classic. |
By Nate Ball
Administrator
From: Taipei, TW
Aug 22, 2012
rating: 5.8
| We climbed a 10a variation of the second pitch, which goes up the seam on the left side of the belay ledge. Protection gets thin as the seam shallows and you transition into slab with bolts. Pass the anchor on the slab and continue to the anchors above the broken crack. We then did the 10a variation of the third pitch, called EPB, which was definitely awesome. This puts you at the top-out ledge with an obvious trail up to the traditional end and walk-off. |
By haishan
Apr 19, 2013
| We linked p1-2 with a 60m (some rope drag) and finished up the EPB variation for a 2-pitch route. EPB is very good and should not be missed. |
By Lina Baker
May 6, 2013
| What a fun climb!!! Worth waiting for behind a few rope teams. The crux pitch (p2) is burly but has great jams, and the plaque before the sky-walk is priceless. fantastic climb! |
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