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 ADVANCED
The Old Woman - West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Band Saw 
Bridwell-Sustad 
Cavity, The 
Dandelion 
Dandelion Stem 
Dandelion Wine 
Dogleg 
Double Cross 
Double Start 
Middle Band 
Northwest Chimney 
Orphan 
Route 499 
Sexy Grandma 

Sexy Grandma 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9- French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Todd Gordon, Bob Gaines, Andrea Tomaszewski & Bill Russell, December 1998
Page Views: 6,130
Submitted By: Steven Powers on Jan 1, 2002
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (178)
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Fun climb.

Description 

This is a fun route that goes up the arete to the left of Band Saw and turns the roof on good holds. This route is really well protected and along with great climbing it makes for a good alternative when Double Cross or other climbs on this face are being climbed. There is a two bolt rap/belay anchor (one 60m rope reaches on lowering).


Protection 

4 bolts up the arete and over a roof to a good crack that takes 2-3" pro



Photos of Sexy Grandma Slideshow Add Photo
Dpurf: this is me on Sexy Grandma.
Dpurf: this is me on Sexy Grandma.
The anchor as viewed from the ground.
The anchor as viewed from the ground.
finnegan over the roof on sexy g.
finnegan over the roof on sexy g.
View from the DC anchors.
View from the DC anchors.
Unknown climber solos the route.
Unknown climber solos the route.
sexy grandma
sexy grandma
me
me
Mr. Mercury enjoying a thrilling ride on the "Sexy Grandma." What is next on his agenda????
Mr. Mercury enjoying a thrilling ride on the "Sexy...
Steve all over sexy G.
Steve all over sexy G.
Geoff on Sexy Grandma, being belayed by Denton
Geoff on Sexy Grandma, being belayed by Denton
Jason Partin leading Sexy Grandma.
Jason Partin leading Sexy Grandma.
Comments on Sexy Grandma Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Mar 8, 2014
By Murf
Oct 9, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I believe I placed a small piece down low. I thought being tall helped on this one, especially clipping the pin after the move right. Don't remember 4-5 bolts, maybe 3 bolts and a pin?

By C Miller
Administrator
Oct 9, 2003
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I think the climb has "evolved" somewhat into more of a clip-up than when originally done. I recall a hand size piece to access the bolts and needing gear for the belay (which is not needed now). Pretty fun route and something to do if in the vicinity and/or waiting for your number at the ever popular Double Cross.

By Steven Powers
Oct 11, 2003
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

Todd and i replaced all the pins with bolts and added one down low. not 10a... not even close ill give 5.8+ but no more.

By David Evans
Oct 13, 2003
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I led it for the second time last season and it felt 5.9++ to me. The first time I did it it felt more like 5.8 (5 or so years ago). It is a very good route.

By Murf
Oct 14, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

It must be so difficult to keep Todd in drill bits.

I'm not much bothered by whatever this route is rated. That being said, the last 5.8+ Todd told me about I had to wear my good shoes. I guess, if Steve-o will allow, I rate it 5.8 DMR.

By Murf
Oct 19, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

( Sorry in advance for the long post )

Friend of mine mentioned to me how one of his favorite warm up routes had been "ruined" by some added bolts. When he mentioned the location, I remembered the "evilution" of Sexy Grandma. I went back to take a look.

The first time I did this route I wasn't maxed out or at my limit. The route was memorable, however, it kept your interest and you had to make commiting moves with less than comfortable pro. This time I had to work to make it interesting.

I choose to forgo the first bolt, instead using a #3 Camalot a foot or two lower, that being my memory of the first time I went up. I made the insecure slab move and went up to the secure flake/edge stance. I clipped the pin.... My recollection here was that one had to leave this comfortable stance and make a commiting, but fairly easy move to clip the pin It seemed the pin had been moved down. I quickly moved through the overhang and prepared to put in the small TCU I remembered placing ... Whoops, now there's a pin where I remembered a TCU spot. I continue the fun slappy moves to the top. Hey look, a rap/anchor station.. Rather than stop there I decided I had the stamina for the easy but fun moves 25 feet up and left to the Double Cross anchors. I nodded to the folks rapping, and had a nice talk with the guy who had just come up.

Yes, Sexy Grandma has evolved. An engaging, memorable route has been sanitized to a much lower commitment level, and dropped into the barely recalled genre. We climb in a park that is being scrutinized everywhere from the front gate to the bouldering mat. It would seem placing new anchors, clearly visible from the ground, no less than 25' of easy climbing from existing achors, on one of the most popular crags in JT ( try saying all that in one breath ), would be so counter productive as to verge on self sabotage.

By Steven Powers
Oct 20, 2003
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

okay ill start this with an apology for the length of this post.

Murf- first only one bolt was added to this climb not counting the anchor, the bolt was added by the first acsentionist, this was his descion and should be respected not scrutinized,this is america, not russia. the bolt was added because, some one ( not the great murf) could easily fall and get hurt, this is a excellent and popular climb, and gets done many times a week, the chances of somone getting hurt without the bolt are probablly 100%, the first acsentionist dosnt want that on his conscience. This area has seen enough blood shed, not every climb needs to be safe, but the first acsent party chose this climb to be a safe one, you should respect this. as for the pin being moved down, the original pin fell out i hope noone got hurt, it was placed lower in better rock, as for the anchor, another descion by the first acsent party and it should'nt be a big deal. instead of complaining try saying thank you for preventing any accidents that may have occured from the over crowding the anchors on DC, which are used even more than the SG anchors. instead of being so negative about what has gone on with this route why not, "hey this is a fun route and thanks for your time, money,effort, and Vision". if you want to fill your pants with a stinking load i can give you a list of routes to go do, hopefully if and when you do new routes people will say thank you and respect the decisions you make regarding your new route, i will. STEVE-o

By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 21, 2003

(OK I too apologize for the length of this post)

I agree with Steve P. 100%! Not because he is a friend but because in my opinion he is correct. Want it the old way? Leave your rack and all other modern gear and then climb with hemp. Even if bolts are added after the fact (As some have been) if it helps to save lives or people from serious injury, I and my son are all for it. There are tons of climbs out there that are pristine and waiting. It would be great if things were to fit all of our personal likes. But that will never happen. All things (ALL!) change like it or not. Maybe getting away from the most popular climbs is in order? The area in question is so used that it to me is like Disney Land. I avoid it all together until the summer months. Hup, two, three...............try HIKING! Now drop and give me 50!

By Randy
Nov 13, 2004
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

hey this is a fun route and thanks for your time, money,effort, and Vision

By Woody Stark
Nov 27, 2004

I did this route for the first time yesterday. I wish I'd done it before; it was quite enjoyable. I'd give it a solid nine. Before posting this comment, I reviewed all previous comments. I'm beginning to think that there is a bit of childish posing on the part of some trying to make the rest of us believe that a route is spoiled if it's reasonably safe. There are plenty of routes out there for anyone wanting to show off and beat their chests. A little maturity and common sense is always a plus.

By Bo Johnston
Apr 18, 2005
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I first climbed this route a couple of years ago on the advice of a local who said it was 5.10a. I think the 8+ is more accurate. Fun climbing with a nice rap station makes it a quick and fun line to hit every time you visit the park.

By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Jan 7, 2006
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

I don't believe that the addition of another bolt to this route by the FA party tips to balance of the run-out climbs to safe climbs in the Monument. I am not bothered by well protected (bolt) climbs in this range for the everyday climber. If it were 5.12 the amount of bolts wouldn't be an issue. On the other side of the coin, I can relate to the disappointment by someone whom did it before the addition of protection. I had the same experience on Valhalla were we pro'd it with shaky sliding nuts and now there are bolt(s). But really who cares in the long run with so many routes to do. The only time it matters is when we have someone who is listening to us tell stories around the campfire.

By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

Sexy Grandma is about the closest it gets to sport climbing in the Park. Fun route.

By Rob M
Mar 27, 2012

Lots of fun. Stem first part-don't get sucked into trying to get into crack on low section. I used a piece before first bolt since it is a long fall if you go to either side of the belay.
This is teh crux, imo.

Run out after last bolt, but really easy after that too. I put in a piece a few feet before the anchor as a feel good move.

It helps to remember to retrieve said piece so you don't have to lead it again when you are tired at the end of the day. Really smooth move.

Definitely 5.9 on bottom, 9+ to prevent barn door pulling that little roof. Probably 5.6 last 20 feet 30 feet and totaaly run out, but not really scary.

By Canon
Nov 17, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

Poor feet getting up the chute for the reach right onto the arete for the second bolt (pin?) Funky moves under the roof to get onto the arete after the third bolt.

By Brandon Bateman
From: Montrose, CA
Jan 21, 2013
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a

This is a great sport route. A bit after the last bolt it felt like class three so putting pro in would help ease the mind but it isn't necessary.

By Gavin Bridgeman
From: Tustin, California
Mar 8, 2014

Stellar sport climb not to be missed if your in the area!