Piton Pooper 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | FA Bob Brinton and Andy Johnson, September 1936 FFA Chuck Wilts, Ellen Wilts, and Spencer Austin, 1949 |
| Submitted By: | Roger Linfield on Feb 24, 2006 |
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Piton Pooper
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Description The sustained crux first pitch is a classic steep lieback. Begin by traversing left around a corner from Pine Tree Ledge. A 150 foot long 5.4 second pitch goes up over broken rock, and past (or through!) a pine tree. A short, easy third pitch leads to the top.
Protection Standard rack.
BETA PHOTO: Piton Pooper, alternate/odd traverse left start.
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.7+
| Marvelous dihedral crack on classic Tahquitz granite....!!! Pro #2 Camalots |
By David Wang
From: San Francisco, CA
May 22, 2006
rating: 5.7+
| The block/flake at the left end of pine tree ledge is the natural choice for anchor to start piton pooper. However I recall the block/flake was very hollow sounding. The challenge is to prevent rope drag while protecting a possible factor 2 fall. One possible, albeit somewhat unglamourous, solution is to walk a piece up until rope drag is no longer an issue.
Strenuous but very doable at 5.7+ with smart rest stances. |
By Christian "crisco" Burrell
From: PG, Utah
Aug 14, 2007
| Great route to test yourself on if you want to know how solid you are on 5.7 multi-pitch trad. Very well protected and you will feel like you have climbed a much harder climb. I feel exhilarated every time I have done this. |
By The Gray Tradster
Aug 14, 2007
| There are plenty of protection options here. No convenience anchors have been required since 1936. There's no need to add any now. |
By Jon Hanlon
From: SLO
Aug 17, 2007
rating: 5.7+
| No convenience anchors have been required since 1936. There's no need to add any now.
Well said! |
By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Sep 22, 2008
rating: 5.8-
| The layback just above the piton is difficult (5.8) for me, but then again i suck at laybacks. because the layback section is a bit overhung and the feet dissapear, its difficult to climb the upper piton crack as a standard crack climb. otherwise, protection is good everywhere on this route. |
By John Long
Jul 21, 2011
| I tried this after climbing for a week or so and backed off. |
By Tommy G.
From: Irvine, California
Jun 3, 2012
| Dihedral pitch is steep. Real, real good climbing for the grade.
To get to the start of Piton Pooper I would recommend starting up the 1st 2 pitches of Dave's Deviation (5.9).
With decent rope mgmt you can get all the way up and left to the small pine tree where Upper Royal's Arch starts (5.8 or 5.10).
The Piton Pooper corner is between these. Great link up. |
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