Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") 

The bulge on P3 is the hardest lead move I've ever seen anyone do. Hats off to Michael for leading, and to Bob for the bold FA!

Bob - Great story re the first ascent. I added the second bolt at the beginning of pitch 2 sometime in the early 90s. Your original belay bolt was showing signs of age (e.g. rust). I had intended to return to remove the older bolt thus leaving the route with no more fixed gear than the original ascent, but I never made it back.

Beautiful, Clean & Exposed. One of the best climbs in the country. Wish the rap was easer, though.

That SOB is hard. Kicked us off. A team of 4 is a horrible idea.

This is without a doubt one of the best routes on the Sun Wall. To avoid the somewhat tricky "Southender" rappel, head up and left to do the Mainline Express rappel. On another note, does anyone know the history behind the two bolts leading through a bulge to the right of the start? I climbed this with a friend and it goes. Just wondering if anyone had done it before.

Climbed T&B for like the 20th time yesterday. It's still good. The mainline rappel is definitely the way to get off especially if you hike in from the Nose area. Leave you approach shoes and pack at the base of Mainline/Aerospace. Here's how to find the Mainline rappel stations. Once you're in the 4th pitch water groove, follow it for about 300 ft (either belay or 4th class). Keep your eye out for first massive tree island on the left. Traverse below the tree island to gain the left end. There is a large maple tree with rap slings (static rope) and rings. As of 07/09 the static rope was still in good shape. Rap from there down 170' to a double bolt belay. Another full 200ft rappel gets you back down to the Sunwall slab. Enjoy!

I don't think that's a Maple tree you rap off. The tree is fairly obvious, but calling it a Maple (as the guidebook does) caused us to hesitate a little bit. Pretty fun route. At the start of pitch 2, do you guys climb off the left side of the belay or right side? I climbed off the left side and it was easy, but there was no gear. It looked like there was gear on the right, but it looked less direct.

I thought the Michelin Man move was the crux, but I'm short.

Super fun!
As of Nov 2010, the Mainline Rap seems like the best way down - 180ft from the tree island to the shiny new rap bolts, about 200ft down to the walk-off.

I have a question. Is this truly a grade IV, at least the way the AMGA would recognize it? Obviously more goes into the commitment than just the length/number of pitches, but 5-100' pitches seems really short for the grade.

The reason I ask isn't to troll; I'm planning a trip to this area in about six months with the intention of getting several east coast Grade IV or longer routes in (for AMGA prereqs); this route looks awesome, but I want to know if it is actually a grade four on par with Gom Jabber or The Glass Menagerie (in commitment, not difficulty). Thanks guys.

Not really. Whitesides, TNF of Looking Glass, maybe some of the routes on LK will yield better opportunities.

No way in hell is it grade IV, or Grade III for that matter. A competent team should take 2-3 hours.

there is a way to weave through the bulges on pitch3 without actually going over the 'micheline man bulge'. go up and right from the belay and traverse the hang. pro is good. climbing is 5.8. you'll end up in exactly the same place. also. i prefer to access t&b from the southside, leave a rope at southender and on pitch4 head sharply for the bolts on irish gig. the advantage is that you don't have to drag a second rope. it's helpful if you're familiar with the tops of the routes between t&b and southender but if you're not the key land mark is the obvious head stone that sits in the ruby tuesday grove. the rap ledge is just below it. the bolts are on the southender side of the ledge, head height. first rapper goes down on a single and ties on the rope you left. same idea as any of the routes that end above sentry ledge on the southside. enjoy.

I like using the rap that Jeep mentions and think going in to do T&B via the southside trail is quicker/chiller. Never thought of leaving a rope at the base of the rappel. Good beta.

On the second pitch instead of exiting the crack and climbing the face out left. Stay in the crack for some great off-width climbing. I don't really no why you would exit the crack. Its fun climbing all the way to the end. ( this is certainly the crux pitch )

Great route! This whole climb eats gear. The bulge move on pitch 3 was exciting! I agree that this climb is very committing for the 5.8-5.9 climber.