Michael makes the scary bulge move leading P3 on T...
Description
I am in the process of adding some routes that I have seen reported with some FA inaccuracies in the newest Selected Climbs of North Carolina guide book. "Titties and Beer" is an example of this. The Shull/Lambert guide reports Randy Mann was on the FA of this route when it was actually Ted Anderson who was on the FA. It is important to recognize Ted as the name for this route was inspired by Ted and comes from a Zappa song. Ted Anderson is a huge Zappa fan and we listened to a lot of Zappa when enroute to our "many" climbing adventures. As well as, of course, being big fans of the objects of this song...
After we did the first ascent & named it Titties & Beer this route got dubbed "the world's hardest 5.8". The story behind that is after we did the first ascent we were telling Jeep Gaskin, Grover Cable & some other friends about the new route. They asked us how hard we thought the route was. We thought about it and it seemed pretty easy compared to some of the scarefests we had done & were doing on the Glass and elsewhere and off the cuff I said "Oh, it's probably about 5.8." Future ascents later confirmed that I might have had understated the rating a bit. Hence it became dubbed "The worlds hardest 5.8" Goes to show its always good to have a concensus on ratings....
Regardless of the original stated rating, for its grade it is a very cool route with a lot of character for a Looking Glass climb. We originally did the route by starting from the left on the upper slab and traversing to underneath the prominent crack system where we placed a bolt and belayed. We also later added a 10+ or 11- R/X direct start that we toproped at first and I led at one point. This variation climbed up with little or no pro to below the belay below the crack. The route has some hard moves to gain the crack and that is what I thought was the crux on the FA. Continue on up the crack and belay near the top. From there move out left to find a spot where you can move thru the bulges and start trending right and then up. It has been a long time since I have done the route but follow the natural line to the top. You might consult the guide book if you want a more accurate description of where the route goes.
Location
Right side of the Sun Wall.
Protection
Standard Looking Glass Rack
Photos of Titties & Beer (aka "World's Hardest 5.8") Slideshow
Bob - Great story re the first ascent. I added the second bolt at the beginning of pitch 2 sometime in the early 90s. Your original belay bolt was showing signs of age (e.g. rust). I had intended to return to remove the older bolt thus leaving the route with no more fixed gear than the original ascent, but I never made it back.
This is without a doubt one of the best routes on the Sun Wall. To avoid the somewhat tricky "Southender" rappel, head up and left to do the Mainline Express rappel. On another note, does anyone know the history behind the two bolts leading through a bulge to the right of the start? I climbed this with a friend and it goes. Just wondering if anyone had done it before.
Climbed T&B for like the 20th time yesterday. It's still good. The mainline rappel is definitely the way to get off especially if you hike in from the Nose area. Leave you approach shoes and pack at the base of Mainline/Aerospace. Here's how to find the Mainline rappel stations. Once you're in the 4th pitch water groove, follow it for about 300 ft (either belay or 4th class). Keep your eye out for first massive tree island on the left. Traverse below the tree island to gain the left end. There is a large maple tree with rap slings (static rope) and rings. As of 07/09 the static rope was still in good shape. Rap from there down 170' to a double bolt belay. Another full 200ft rappel gets you back down to the Sunwall slab. Enjoy!
I don't think that's a Maple tree you rap off. The tree is fairly obvious, but calling it a Maple (as the guidebook does) caused us to hesitate a little bit. Pretty fun route. At the start of pitch 2, do you guys climb off the left side of the belay or right side? I climbed off the left side and it was easy, but there was no gear. It looked like there was gear on the right, but it looked less direct.
I thought the Michelin Man move was the crux, but I'm short.
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