Near the top of Mr. Clean (5.8) at the Barkeater C...
Description
What a way to be greeted by this cliff. Mr. Clean is the clean right-facing dihedral that marks the top of the climbers trail to the cliff, and it is a great way to get the day started, finish off the day, or try your hand and placing gear if you are eager to break into the grade.
This route is as obvious as they come--climb the corner through a semi-technical stemming section about midway up the corner. Get a great rest on phenomenally featured rock at about 3/4 of the way, and finish up by climbing the lower-angled hand and finger crack to the chain anchors.
Location
At the height of the climbers trail...you can't miss the corner.
Protection
Doubles are helpful, but not obligatory, from green to blue Camalot.
In the new ADK guide by Hass this has been bumped up to a 9 (although I consider myself an 8 climber so I think it must be an 8 because I was able to haul myself up. It's a great climb and a lot of fun allowing for practice of stemming or lieback if you're so inclined.
I found this easier than "Eat Yourself a Pie" which I climbed later in the day. I did the entire climb as a lieback and cruised up it. The crux is a series of 9 moves especially if you can't jam or lieback very well.
By Chris Duca Administrator From: Hinesburg, Vermont Jul 16, 2009
I agree with both aforementioned comments regarding the new difficulty rating in the guidebook. Climbing this route either way (jamming it straight in, or laying it back) doesn't seem to change the grade or present itself as more difficult in my opinion.
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