Kick in the Balls 

FA:  Josh Thompson, Marc Hemmes, Brian Kosta Fall 1998 New Route:  Yes Type:  Trad Length:  2 pitches, 350 feet Views: 519 page views Submitted By: J. Thompson on Feb 18, 2004 Add Photo  Add Comment

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Description 

As one looks up and left (climbers) from the top of Lotta Balls wall, you will see an obvious crack splitting an varnished buttress...voila!! Scramble to the base, from the top of LOBW.Start from a nice ledge at the base of this obvious crack, the crack starts off fingers and goes to #5 camalot size on the first pitch. Belay from 2 bolts on the left side of the crack- 5.8. Pitch 2 Upward!! Continue up the wide crack to the top of the buttress...there is a flake that creates smaller gear placements about midway up the pitch-5.8.Descent: it is possible to descend down either side of the buttress, both involve downclimbing and, depending on one's downclimbing abilities, possibly rappels. If you choose to go down the gully to the west you will join the standard descent for LOBW. If you choose to go to the east you will have to do some circutious route finding.

Enjoy!

Protection 

SR, up to a #5(old style) camalot- Big bros are not needed.