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 ADVANCED
Solar Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Clovis Hunter S 
Cro-Magnon S 
Erectus S 
Evolution S 
Hominid S 
ILL (Ian and Lance Line) Route, The S 
Intelligent Design S 
Lucy S 
Mastodont S 
Meanderthal S 
Native Rituals S 
Natural Selection S 
Neanderthal S 
Quest for Fire S 
Sapien S 
Survival of the Fittest S 
Tribal Moves (aka Sacred Stone) S 
Voyage of the Beagle S 

Lucy 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: A. Miller, J. Smith, 2005
Page Views: 859
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Mar 8, 2006

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Claudia pulling through the first roof of Lucy.

Description 

Starts near the center of the crag, climbing over a series of roofs. This route shares the start with another route, Cro-Magnon, which also goes at 5.12a. Move left at the intersection between the two climbs. This climb also has an alternate start to the left of the original, which actually goes up another route, Evolution (see comment below from Aaron Miller, the route setter). The crux is going over the second roof, watch the pinch on the arete! The top has some interesting face climbing and stemming to the anchors, though, a little run-out for my tastes at the top. Good route, however!

Location 

The route is in the center between the right and left sides of the Solar Cave crag. Two routes share the same start here.

Protection 

Bolts to chain anchors.


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By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13

The start to the left is for a new route called "Evolution", which is rated 12c overall. However, this start is solid 12b through the bulge and 11+ through the huge roof flake where you can veer right and finish on "Lucy". This will allow one to "wuss out" of the spectacular but very hard 12c (thin and powerful) face finish of Evolution (very generously bolted).

After you pull Lucy's 12a crux, 60 feet off the ground, the 5.11- upper dihedral section is runout 5.7 for about 15 feet. However, the route quickly regains an appropriate density of bolts when the climbing gets harder than 5.7.

There is also a third, but less obvious variation to the same start as Lucy and Cro-Magnon. After the first bulge-crux where you cop a stem-rest under the roof, head up right past the next bolt and then traverse hard right(5.9) under the roof. This will get you on the sweet upper 11d face section of Neanderthal ( this variation properly titled "Meanderthal"). Back clean the draw at the stem-rest and use two long runners for the easy traverse.

enjoy