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Claudia pulling through the first roof of Lucy.
Starts near the center of the crag, climbing over a series of roofs. This route shares the start with another route, Cro-Magnon, which also goes at 5.12a. Move left at the intersection between the two climbs. This climb also has an alternate start to the left of the original, which actually goes up another route, Evolution (see comment below from Aaron Miller, the route setter). The crux is going over the second roof, watch the pinch on the arete! The top has some interesting face climbing and stemming to the anchors, though, a little run-out for my tastes at the top. Good route, however!
The route is in the center between the right and left sides of the Solar Cave crag. Two routes share the same start here.
Bolts to chain anchors.
|By Aaron Miller|
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.12a PG13
The start to the left is for a new route called "Evolution", which is rated 12c overall. However, this start is solid 12b through the bulge and 11+ through the huge roof flake where you can veer right and finish on "Lucy". This will allow one to "wuss out" of the spectacular but very hard 12c (thin and powerful) face finish of Evolution (very generously bolted).
After you pull Lucy's 12a crux, 60 feet off the ground, the 5.11- upper dihedral section is runout 5.7 for about 15 feet. However, the route quickly regains an appropriate density of bolts when the climbing gets harder than 5.7.
There is also a third, but less obvious variation to the same start as Lucy and Cro-Magnon. After the first bulge-crux where you cop a stem-rest under the roof, head up right past the next bolt and then traverse hard right(5.9) under the roof. This will get you on the sweet upper 11d face section of Neanderthal ( this variation properly titled "Meanderthal"). Back clean the draw at the stem-rest and use two long runners for the easy traverse.