|Consensus:||YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||A. Miller, J. Smith, 2005|
|Submitted By:||Anthony Stout on Mar 8, 2006|
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By Aaron Miller
From: Santa Fe, NM
Mar 13, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
After you pull Lucy's 12a crux, 60 feet off the ground, the 5.11- upper dihedral section is runout 5.7 for about 15 feet. However, the route quickly regains an appropriate density of bolts when the climbing gets harder than 5.7.
"Evolucy"--The start to the left is for a bold route called "Evolution", which is rated 12c overall. However, this start is solid 12b through the bulge and 11+ through the huge roof flake where you can veer right and finish on "Lucy". This will allow one to "opt out" of the spectacular but hard 12c (thin and powerful) face finish of Evolution (very generously bolted).
"Lucilution"--You can also avoid the bouldery start of Evolution by stareting on Lucy through the roof bulge, then heading left to finish on the spectacular and airy blunt arete of Evolution. This is an easy way to get mileage on the crux of Evolution without the hard start.
"Meanderthal"--There is also a third, but less obvious variation to the same start as Lucy and Cro-Magnon. After the first bulge-crux where you cop a stem-rest under the roof, head up right past the next bolt(a CM-bolt) and then traverse hard right(5.9) under the roof. This will get you on the sweet upper 11d face section of Neanderthal ( this variation properly titled "Meanderthal"). Back clean the draw at the stem-rest and use two long runners for the easy traverse.
By George Perkins
From: Los Alamos, NM
Jan 2, 2016
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Most consider "Lucy" a little easier than the right branch (Cro-Magnon), despite the runout. Cro-Magnon doesn't have a scary runout. However, a finger-size cam (#0.3 BD) fits nicely in Lucy's runout section between bolts 9 & 10, if you're spooked by 5.7 that you really don't want to fall on. Still, both variations are a little bit headier than usual for sport climbs, because of their length and because the belayer can't see you on the high vert face.
In recent months, a block broke around bolt 5 making the bulge (while shared with Cro-Magnon) a little harder, though it is not the crux.
12 bolts, not including anchors. Bolt 6 has a chain permadraw.